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[[http://www.cultichampis.com | www.cultichampis.com]]
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[[http://www.cultichampis.com | www.cultichampis.com]]
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[[http://www.cultichampis.com | www.cultichampis.com]]
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[[http://www.cultichampis.com | www.cultichampis.com]]
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>>yellowbox<<

%center%'+I made a video of the substrate preparation and inoculation:+'
%center%%newwin%http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iFi3YrIo7o

>><<
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%center%(:youtube 3iFi3YrIo7o:)
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%define=yellowbox box bgcolor=#fff7cb border='1px solid #ffad80'%
>>yellowbox<<

%center%'+I made a video of the substrate preparation and inoculation:+'
%center%%newwin%http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iFi3YrIo7o

>><<

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Après la première "flush", il est crucial de récolter tous les champignons. Egalement les avortés. La manière la plus simple pour le faire consiste à tourner gentiment le champignon tout en l'arrachant du gâteau. Avec des mains propres s'il vous plaît.
to:
Après la première "flush", il est crucial de récolter tous les champignons. Egalement les avortés. La manière la plus simple pour le faire consiste à tourner gentiment le champignon tout en l'arrachant du gâteau. Avec des mains propres s'il vous plaît. Optionally you can [[http://www.thenook.org/archives/dunktek.htm | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.
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et beaucoup [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | d'autres]].
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et beaucoup [[http://www.shroomery.org/sponsors.php | d'autres]].
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If you never have used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].
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If you never have used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[English/Pressure-Cooker-Use | correct pressure cooker use]].
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%center%'+La PF-Tek pour les nuls+'
%center%
pour la culture des champignons aimant les graines
%center%(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
%center%'-(  mis à jour: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-Les commentaires et les suggestions sont toujours bienvenues-'
%center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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!La PF-Tek pour les nuls
pour la culture des champignons aimant les graines
(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
'-(  mis à jour: {$LastModified} )-'
'-Les commentaires et les suggestions sont toujours bienvenues-'
[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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%center%'-Les commentaires et les suggestions sont toujours bienvenues-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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%center%'-Les commentaires et les suggestions sont toujours bienvenues-'
%center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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!! Vermiculite
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!!!Vermiculite
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!!Sources en ligne pour la vermiculite et la perlite

France:
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!!!Sources en ligne pour la vermiculite et la perlite

'''France''':
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!!Farine de riz complet
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!!!Farine de riz complet
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!!L'eau
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!!!L'eau
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!!La seringue de spores
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!!!La seringue de spores
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!!Les bocaux
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!!!Les bocaux
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====
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====
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(:title La PF-Tek pour les nuls:)
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(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0 width=100% align=center:)
(:cell:)
[[#a1|Materiaux]]
(:cell:)
[[#a2|Substrat]]
(:cell:)
[[#a3|Sterilization]]
(:cell:)
[[#a4|Inoculation]]
(:cell:)
[[#a5|Incubation]]
(:cell:)
[[#a6|Fruitaison]]
(:tableend:)

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!!Fruiting
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!!Fruitaison
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 Couvrez les bocaux avec une couverture afin de garder la chaleur et d'y instaurer de la pénombre.
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Couvrez les bocaux avec une couverture afin de garder la chaleur et d'y instaurer de la pénombre.
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 Prenez un morceau de feuille d'aluminium de 12 cm de large (5 pouces) et pliez-la par le milieu.
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Prenez un morceau de feuille d'aluminium de 12 cm de large (5 pouces) et pliez-la par le milieu.
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The jars should be stored at 21-27°C (70-81°F), the warmer the better, but not exceeding 27°C. If you don't have these temperatures at home you can build an incubator to accommodate the jars.

!!Incubator
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Les bocaux devraient être entreposés à une température de 21 à 27 °C , le plus chaud étant le mieux, mais ne pas excèder 27°C. Si vous ne pouvez pas fournir ces températures, vous pouvez faire un incubateur.

!!Incubateur
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The inoculated jars develop fastest if they are stored at a temperature of 27°C (80°F) (According to Stamets the best incubation temperature for ''P. cubensis'' would be 86°F, but since the jars themselves are a few degrees warmer than the surroundings (mycelium emits heat when growing) 80°F is a good and safe incubator temperature)

You can build an effective incubator by using two plastic boxes of the same size and an aquarium heater. 
There are several types of aquarium heaters. When you´re buying a heater, make sure that it is of the "fully submersible"
type
Attach the heater to the bottom of the first box and pour in as much 27°C warm water that the heater is completely submerged.
Adjust the heaters
thermostat so that the heater just shuts itself off at 27°C .
Put some spacers on the bottom of the box, they carry the second box and prevent it from touching the heater. In the above picture 4 jars are used. You could also use bricks, stones or something similar.

to:
Les bocaux inoculés se développent plus rapidement si ils sont stockés à une température de 27°C (80°F)

(D'après
Stamets, la meilleure température pour les P.cubensis serait de 86°F mais étant donné que les bocaux sont eux-même à quelques degrés de plus que leur environnement (le mycélium émet de la chaleur en croissant), 80°F est une bonne température d'incubation tout en étant assez sûre)

Vous pouvez bricoler un incubateur efficace en utilisant deux boîtes en plastic de la même taille et un chauffage d'aquarium.
Il existe différents types de chauffage d'aquarium.
Lorsque vous utilisez un chauffage de ce
type, assurez-vous qu'il soit totalement submersible.
Fixez le chauffage au fond de la première boîte et verser y autant d'eau chaude (27°C) pour que le chauffage soit complètement sous l'eau.
Réglez le
thermostat de manière à ce que le chauffage se déclenche automatiquement à une température de 27°C.
Placez des plots d'espacement (voir schèma ci-contre) au fond de la même boîte. Ils supportent la deuxième boîte et l'empêche de toucher le chauffage. Sur la photo du dessus, 4 bocaux sont utilisés comme plots d'espacement. Vous pouvez également utiliser des bricks, des pierres ou quelque chose de similaire.

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Put the second box in the one containing water.
After a few hours measure the temperature again and adjust the heater if necessary so the water temperature is 27°C.

to:
Placez la deuxième boîte dans celle qui contient l'eau. Après quelques heures, mesurez à nouveau la température et si nécessaire, ajustez le chauffage pour que la température de l'eau soit à 27°C.
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When the box is empty, it will float on the water.
The water level in the lower box should reach app.
2/3 the height of the box, supposing the upper box is in place loaded with jars and resting on the spacers.
to:
Lorsque la boîte est vide, elle flotte sur l'eau. Le niveau de l'eau dans la première boîte devrait atteindre les 2/3 de la hauteur en supposant que la boîte du dessus est remplie de bocaux et qu'elle repose sur les plots d'espacement.
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Now you can put the inoculated jars into the box.
to:
Vous pouvez dès à présent placer les bocaux inoculés dans les boîtes.
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Cover the jars with a blanket to keep the heat escaping and to keep the jars dark. Note: the water level drops in some weeks by evaporation. Therefore you have to fill some fresh water in from time to time to keep the water level high enough. Never let evaporate so much water that the heater isn´t submerged in water anymore! You can get all of the above items at [[http://www.tkqlhce.com/7o70uoxuowBDJKGCLGBHLCECIL | www.ebay.com]] for a very good price.
to:
 Couvrez les bocaux avec une couverture afin de garder la chaleur et d'y instaurer de la pénombre.

Note: Après quelques semaines le niveau d'eau diminue du à l'évaporation. Il faut alors rajouter de l'eau de temps en temps pour garder le niveau à la bonne hauteur.

Ne laissez jamais l'eau s'évaporer jusqu'à ce que le corps de chauffe ne soit plus submergé par l'eau
.
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Providing the jars are kept warm you should see the first sign of germination after 3-5 days as bright white specks. This is mycelium. If anything grows that is not white, for instance green, black or pink, then the jars are contaminated and their content must be discarded and your clean procedures need some improvement. After the jars are emptied and the jar is washed with detergent and hot water it can be used again. 
to:
En donnant assez de chaleur aux bocaux, vous devriez voir les premier signes de germination après 3 - 5 jours sous la forme de tâches blanches. C'est le mycélium. Si quelque chose pousse qui n'est pas blanc, par exemple vert, noir ou rose, alors les bocaux sont contaminés et leur contenu doit être jeté et vos procédure de propreté doivent impérativement être améliorées.
Une fois que les jars ont été vidées et qu'elles aient été lavées avec du détergent et de l'eau chaude, elles peuvent être utilisées de nouveau.
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Depending on the temperature and the viability of the spore syringe it takes 14-28 days for the mycelium to colonize the whole jar. Once colonized store the jars at normal room temperature, about 21°C (70°F) to initiate pinning.
Don't expose the jars to direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight (= the natural light that lights up a room because at day time out) or a low wattage lamp (cool white fluorescent lamp is ideal, incandescent lamp is less suitable) for 4-12 hours a day is sufficient. 
to:
Suivant de la température, cela peut prendre 14 - 25 jours pour que le mycélium colonise en entier le substrat. Une fois que ceci est accompli, entreposez les bocaux à une température normale, à peu près à 21°C (70°F).
N
'exposez pas les bocaux à la lumière directe du soleil. De la lumière indirecte ou une lampe avec un faible wattage au moins quelques heures par jour est suffisant.
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Within 5-10 days (with certain mushroom strains it can however take up to 30 days) pinhead-size accumulations of mycelium should form. These so called pins represent the beginning of mushroom growth. In the following days also small mushrooms with brown heads become visible. When this is the case it's time to birth the cake into the fruiting container where the mushrooms can develop to maturity.
Some strains don't easily develop pins. In this case put the colonized jar wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge over night and then proceed to [[http://www.fungifun.org/pf/fruiting.htm | fruiting]] next day, even if the cake doesn´t show pins yet. This cold shocking usually helps trigger pinning somewhat.

to:
Dans les 5 à 10 jours (avec certaines espèces de champignons, cela peut prendre jusqu'à 30 jours) une accumulation de mycélium devrait se former et prendre la forme de pin. Ces soit-disantes pin représentent le commencement de la croissance du champignon. Pendant les jours suivants, de petits champignons avec des têtes brunes deviennent visible. Il est maintenant le moment de démouler le gateau dans la boîte de fruitaison là où les champignons pourront se développer jusqu'à maturité.
Certaines races ne développent pas facilement de pins. Dans ce cas, mettez le bocal colonisé emballé dans un sac plastique au frigo pendans la nuit et démoulez-le le jour suivant, même si le gateau ne montre aucun signe de pins. D'habitude, ce choque par le froid aide à la formation de pins

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La fruitaison des gâteaux peut s'accomplir dans n'importe quel type de container qui puisse être légèrement sellé et qui aie au moins une partie transparente, de préférence au sommet. Des bidons en plastic, des boîtes de rangement, des terrariums, des aquariums … sont tous des conteneurs adéquates.
Placez une couche de 1-2 cm de perlite humidifiée ou des boulettes de grey expansées ou bien même un chiffon en papier mouillé, au fond du conteneur et démoulez les gâteaux sur cette couche en les laissant glisser hors du bocal tourné à l'envers.

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The fruiting of the cakes can be accomplished in any sort of container that can be loosely sealed and has at least one translucent side, preferably on the top. Suitable containers are a plastic bucket, rubbermaid container, terrarium, aquarium...
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down
. Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease.

to:
Ça peut arriver que le gâteau ne glisse pas tout seul le long des parois du bocal.
Vous avez juste besoin de retourner le bocal colonisé à l'envers dans votre main et frapper légèrement votre main contre la paume de votre autre main. Ceci fera descendre le gâteau récalcitrant sur le couvercle et il pourra ensuite être démoulé facilement
.
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If you have a bigger fruiting chamber (a bigger plastic container or a terrarium) you can of course put in more than one cake to fruit.
The distance between the cakes should be at least 2" (5cm) for the mushrooms have room to grow. Put a sheet of translucent plastic over the opening of the fruiting container. Take this sheet off once a day and fan the air out with a piece of cardboard
. If the bottom layer begins to dry out, spray it with some water to keep it moist since this layer provides moisture for the air to stay very humid. Don&acute;t spray the cakes directly.
Handle the cakes as little as possible but when you do it allways wash your hands thouroughly beforehand
.
Over a course of the bext 7-14 days the cakes will begin to pin(if the haven't began to pin in the jars yet) and the small mushrooms will grow big in a matter of 2-5 days and as soon the caps begin to open they can be harvested.
This simultanious maturation of all mushrooms is called a flush.

to:
La distance entre les gâteaux dans le conteneur de fruitaison devrait être au moins de 5 cm (2 pouces). Placez une feuille de plastic transparent sur l'ouverture du conteneur. Retirez cette feuille une fois par jour et ventiler l'air stagnante avec un morceau de carton. Si la couche du fond commence à sècher, sprayez la avec de l'eau pour la garder mouillée étant donné qu'elle garde l'air humide. Ne sprayez pas les gâteaux directement.
Ne manipulez les gâteaux que si cela est vraiment nécessaire et lavez-vous minutieusement les mains avant de les toucher.
Les champignons atteignent leur taille en quelques jours et dès que les chapeaux commencent à s'ouvrir, ils peuvent être récoltés.
La maturation simultanée de tous les champignons est appelée un "débordement" (flush)
.
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After the mushrooms have grown big there are usually a few small, stunted mushrooms left over, they are called aborts. They can be recognized by their blackish heads and the fact that they stopped growing at some point. Still they are good to use unless they are rotten.
to:
Une fois que les champignons ont bien grandis, il en reste toujours quelqu'uns, plus petit, rabougris. Ils sont appelés avortés. Ils peuvent être reconnus par leur têtes noirâtres et le fait qu'ils aient arrêté de grandir à un certain point. A moins qu'ils ne soient pourri, ils sont bon à la consommation.
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It's crucial that you harvest all mushrooms, also the aborts, after the flush. This is most easily accomplished if you harvest the mushrooms off by gently twisting and tearing them off the cake with clean hands. Optionally you can [[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.
to:
Après la première "flush", il est crucial de récolter tous les champignons. Egalement les avortés. La manière la plus simple pour le faire consiste à tourner gentiment le champignon tout en l'arrachant du gâteau. Avec des mains propres s'il vous plaît.
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After approximately one week small mushrooms begin to form again and mature during the next days.
This
cycle can repeat itself up to 4 times sometimes even more. After that the cake is exhausted it produces no more mushrooms and can be discarded. They can be also used to start [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | outdoor beds]].
to:
Après approximativement une semaine, de petits champignons recommencent à se former et grandissent les jours suivant.
Ce cycle peut se répèter jusqu'à 4 fois et même plus. Après ça, le gâteau est au bout du rouleau et ne produit plus de champignons.
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Sometimes green mold attacks the cakes even before they are completely exhausted. If this is the case remove and discard the contaminated cakes immediately to prevent the spreading of the contamination.
to:
Il peut arriver que des moisissures vertes attaquent le gâteau avant qu'il n'aie tout donné. Si une situation pareille se présente, enlevez et mettez immédiatement à l'écart le gâteau contaminé afin de prévenir la propagation de la contamination.
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3'^rd^' flush: 
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3'^ème^' flush:
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4'^th^' and final  flush:
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4'^ème^' et dernière flush
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Pour water slowly over the vermiculite while stirring with a spoon.
Be careful to only put that much water in as it can be absorbed by the vermiculite. Stir it well so all the vermiculite is uniformly soaked with water
.
to:
Versez l'eau doucement sur la vermiculite tout en mélangeant avec une cuillère.
Faite attention à ne pas mettre plus d'eau que la vermiculite ne puisse absorber
.
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When you tilt the bowl you should see just a little water starting coming from the vermiculite.
This is when the correct water content is achieved.
If there is too much water in the bowl, pour the wet vermiculite in a strainer and let the excess water drain for a minute
. Then the vermiculite will be at the field capacity, which is perfect.
to:
Lorsque vous penchez le bol, vous devriez apercevoir juste un peu d'eau qui commence à s'écouler de la vermiculite. Ceci est le moment ou le contenu adéquate en eau a été atteint.
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Now put the required amount of the BRF (for instance 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) into the wet vermiculite at once and mix it in with the spoon. The goal is to uniformly coat the wet vermiculite particles with a layer of BRF.
to:
Maintenant placez la quantité requise de farine de riz complet en une fois ( par exemple : 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) sur la vermiculite mouillée et mélangez le tout avec une cuillère. Le but de l'opération est d'encapper les particules de vermiculite avec une couche de farine de riz complet.
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Fill the mixture in jars ½ inch (1cm) under the top. it's very important to fill the substrate in the jars without tapping it down at all. It should stay very airy and loose to provide optimum conditions for the growth of mycelium.
Be careful not to leave any substrate on the upper edge of the jar
. If you weren't careful enough and there are some substrate specks at the edge take a clean moist cloth and wipe the upper portion of the jar clean. Otherwise contaminants can start at those spots and work their way down into the jar.
to:

Remplissez les bocaux avec la mixture et laissez un 1 cm d
'espace entre le sommet du verre et le sommet du tas de substrat. Il est très important de remplir les bocaux sans les tasser du tout. Le substrat devrait rester très aéré et meuble afin de fournir les conditions optimales pour la croissance du mycélium.
Faite attention à ne pas laisser de substrat sur le bord supérieur du bocal. Si vous n'avez pas fait assez attention à cela, prenez un chiffon propre et essuyez le bord du bocal pour qu'il soit propre. Autrement, des contaminants peuvent commencer à se développer à partir de ces points et faire leur chemin vers le contenu du bocal.
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Fill up the jar with dry vermiculite to the top.
This layer hinders airborne
contaminants reaching the underlying substrate in case they manage to come in during the inoculation and incubation.
to:
Remplissez la bocal jusqu'au sommet avec de la vermiculite sèche. Cette couche empêche les contaminants dans l'air d'arriver jusqu'au substrat soujacent, au cas ou ils essayeraient de s'inviter durant l'inoculation.
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Take a 5inch(12cm) wide stripe of aluminium foil and fold it in the middle.
Put the foil over the opening of the jar as shown in the pictures. If you're using jars with metal lids, you can poke
4 holes at the very edge of each lid with a small nail and hammer and screw the lid on. The holes should be slightly bigger than the diameter of the syringe needle.
to:
 Prenez un morceau de feuille d'aluminium de 12 cm de large (5 pouces) et pliez-la par le milieu.
Placez la feuille sur l'ouverture du bocal comme montré sur les photos.
Si vous utilisez des bocaux avec des couvercles métalliques, faites
4 trous sur les bords du couvercle avec un petit clou et un marteau. Les trous devraient être légèrement plus grand que le diamètre de l'aiguille de la seringue.
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Fold the foil edges up and press them together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid.
to:
Rabattez les bords de la feuille et pressez les ensemble, comme cela vous obtenez un joli couvercle en alimunium.
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Then take a piece of foil measuring 5in x 5in in and put it over the first two layers (respectively the metal lid if you're using lids) leaving the edges of the foil reaching down, since it has to be lifted again during the inoculation.
So now you have 3 layers of foil over the opening
. The top layer is lifted during the inoculation.
to:
Ensuite prenez une feuille d'alu mesurant 12 cm x 12 cm et placez la sur les deux premières couches (respectivement le couvercle en métal si vous utilisez un couvercle) en laissant, cette fois-ci, les bords de la feuille pendre le long du bocal étant donné que cette dernière sera soulevée pour l'inoculation.
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Pour approximately 1inch (2.5cm) of water into the pressure cooker, don't put in too much water otherwise it will come into the jars and alter their water content.
Then stack the jars into the pressure cooker. The use of a rack to keep the jars from directly touching the bottom of the cooker is strongly recommended.
Put the lid on and bring the cooker to the required pressure (15
psi = 1atm over atmospheric pressure) slowly over a period of 15 minutes on a medium flame.
to:
Versez à peu près 2,5 cm  d'eau dans la casserole à pression. N'y placez pas trop d'eau, autrement elle pourrait remonter et gicler dans les bocaux, modifiant ainsi leur contenu en eau.
Ensuite empilez les bocaux dans la casserole à pression. L'utilisation d'un fond métallique pour empêcher les bocaux de toucher le fond de la casserole est vivement recommandé.

Mettez le couvercle et amenez doucement la casserole jusqu'à la pression nécessaire (15
psi = 1atm sur de la pression atmosphèrique) sur un période de 15 minutes à feu moyen.
Si vous chauffez la casserole trop vite, les bocaux peuvent se fendre.
Aussi tôt que la vapeur commence à sortir de la casserole ou de la buse sur le couvercle, rabaissez le feu afin que seul un flot de vapeur, léger mais ferme, sorte de la casserole. A partir de ce point, laisser cuire 45 minutes.

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If you heat up the cooker too fast this can cause the jars to crack.
As soon as the steam begins to escape the rocker or the vent at the top of the pressure cooker turn the heat back so only a very small, steady steam flow persists from the vent. From this point on, pressure cook for 45 minutes.
Depending on the pressure cooker model the cooking procedure works a bit different so if you're not familiar with pressure cooking consult the instruction manual or someone who used pressure cookers before.
After 45 min take the cooker from the flame and let cool for at least 5 hours or even better over night.
If you are unable to find or buy a pressure cooker, you can also sterilize the jars using a big pot with a lid.
In this case steam the jars for 1.5 hours in a pot lid on. Use only approximately 1 inch of water at the bottom.
You might have to add some water to the pot during steaming due to evaporation.
to:
D'après le modèle de casserole à pression que vous possèdez, la procèdure de cuisson se passe de manière légèrement différente. Alors si vous n'êtes pas familier avec les casseroles à pression, consultez le manuel d'instruction ou quelqu'un qui a déjà utilisé la casserole.

Après 45 minutes, enlevez la casserole du feu et laisser la refroidir pendant au moins 5 heures ou encore mieux, une nuit entière.

Si vous ne pouvez pas vous procurer une casserole à pression, vous pouvez aussi stérilisez les bocaux dans une grande casserole avec un couvercle.

Dans ce cas passez ces bocaux par la vapeur pendant 1 h ½ dans la casserole normale avec le couvercle dessus. Utilisez approximativement 2,5 cm (1 pouce) d'eau dans le fond.

Vous pourriez avoir à ajouter un peu d'eau dans la casserole durant l'opération, du à l'évaporation.
Changed line 195 from:
!!Inoculation
to:
!!Inoculation
Changed lines 198-199 from:
After the cooker is cold to the touch take the jars out and place them on a clean surface, have an alcohol lamp or a lighter and the spore syringe ready. Shake the spore syringe to break up the spore clumps.
to:
Une fois la casserole devenue froide au toucher, retirez les bocaux et placez-les sur une surface propre. Ayez une lampe à alcool ou un briquet et une serigue de spores prêts sous la main. Secouez la seringue de spores afin de casser les agglomération de spores
Changed line 204 from:
To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
to:
Afin d'être secoué de manière efficace, la seringue doit contenir une bulle d'air. Si ce n'est pas le cas, vous pouvez pomper approximativement 1 cc d'air stéril dans la seringue en plaçant le bout de l'aiguille dans la flamme et en etirant lentement le plongeur de la seringue vers l'arrière.
Changed lines 210-211 from:
Loosen the foil from all of the jars so it can be lifted easily when you inoculate.
to:
Desserrez les feuilles de tous les bocaux de manière à ce qu'elles puissent être relevées facilement au moment de l'inoculation.
Changed lines 216-217 from:
Take the cover from the needle and heat it over the flame until glowing red. Let cool for a few seconds
to:
Enlever le capuchon de l'aiguille et chauffer la sur la flamme jusqu'à ce qu'elle rougisse. Laissez refroidir quelques secondes.
Changed lines 222-223 from:
Take the upper foil layer off and put aside upside down.
to:
Retirez la couche supérieure (la feuille d'alu protectrice) et mettez la de côté avec le dessus posé face par terre.
Changed lines 228-229 from:
Pierce the foil at the edge of the jar with the needle app. 1in(2.5cm) deep and inject the spore suspension towards the inner jar surface. You should see a small drop running down the inner surface of the jar towards the bottom. Each jar is inoculated on 4 equally spaced points. You should use 1 - 1.5 ml of the spore suspension per jar so one 10ml syringe is sufficient for 6 -10 jars.
to:
Percez la feuille sur les bords du bocal avec l'aiguille à peu près 2.5 cm (1 pouce) de profondeur et injecter la suspension de spores en direction de la couche interne du bocal. Vous devriez apercevoir une petite goutte dégoulinant le long de la surface interne du bocal en direction du bas. Chaque bocal doit être inoculé 4 fois, dans des points également éloignés les uns des autres. Vous devriez utiliser 1 - 1,5 ml de suspension de spores par bocal de manière à ce qu'une seringue de 10 ml soit suffisante pour 6 à 10 bocaux.
Changed lines 234-236 from:
Put the foil on again. Flame sterilize the needle again after inoculating 3 jars to prevent cross contamination just in case a jar wasn't properly sterilized.
When all of the jars are inoculated fold the foil edges up and press them firmly together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid. Write the inoculation date and the species/strain information on the foil with an all surface felt tip pen. If you touch something other with the needle during the inoculation procedure except the foil surface of the bottom foil layer immediately flame sterilize the tip again
.
to:
Replacez la feuille d'aluminium protectrice. Stérilisez l'aiguille de la seringue par la flamme après avoir inoculé 2 bocaux afin de prévenir une contamination croisée dans le cas ou un bocal n'aurait pas été stérilisé comme il faut.
Une fois que tous les bocaux ont été inoculés, rabattez les bords de la feuille d'aluminium protectrice et pressez les fermement ensemble et vous obtiendrez un joli couvercle en aluminium. Inscrivez la date de l'inoculation et les information sur l'espèce ou la variété sur la feuille d'alu avec un stylo convenant à ce type de surface (feutre indélébile). Si avec la seringue, durant l'inoculation, vous touchez quelque chose d'autre que la surface de la feuille interne, restérilisez par la flamme le bout de l'aiguille
.
Changed lines 9-10 from:
%center%'+PF-Tek for Simple Minds+'
%center%for the cultivation of grain - loving mushrooms
to:
%center%'+La PF-Tek pour les nuls+'
%center%pour la culture des champignons aimant les graines
Changed lines 12-14 from:
%center%'-( updated: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time
-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
to:
%center%'-(  mis à jour: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-Les commentaires et les suggestions sont toujours bienvenues
-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
Changed lines 20-32 from:
The [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] was developed and first made public in 1992 by [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
This tek made the cultivation of mushrooms at home feasible for complete beginners utilizing commonly available materials.
The growing method I  describe here is based on the
PF-tek but includes a few modifications that are time tested, and are, in my opinion, superior to the original PF-tek.
I strongly recommend you to read the original  [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], if you haven't done so already, to see a different approach to some steps.

The PF-Tek for Simple Minds uses ½ pint (~240ml) canning jars or drinking glasses and a growing substrate made of vermiculite, brown rice flour and water. The substrate is prepared, sterilized and inoculated with mushroom spores. After the substrate is fully colonized the fruiting takes place in a humid container.

!!On the subject of cleanliness

By growing mushrooms indoors on a nutritious substrate, you create conditions than not only favor the growth of the mushrooms, but also favor the growth of a large number of other organisms, many of them hazardous to the health.  To ensure that only the desired mushroom is grown, it is very important to assure cleanliness in all of the
cultivation related procedures.

Before you work, wash your hands with (antibacterial) soap and warm water. Afterwards, wipe them dry and rub with Lysol or isopropyl-alcohol(iso-propanol).  Keep the rooms where you do the inoculation and fruiting dust free and clean and don't bring in dirty clothing or shoes.  Equally important is personal hygiene. Dirty hands, and even dirty hair, are a hotbed for all kinds of unwanted microorganisms which can destroy your cultivation project.
to:
La [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] a été rendue publique pour la première fois en 1992 par [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
La méthode de culture présentée ici est basée sur la PF-Tek mais inclus quelques modifications testées avec le temps et est, je le pense, supérieure à la PF-Tek originale.
Si ceci n'
a pas été fait, je vous recommande vivement de lire la [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], afin d'avoir une approche différente de certaines étapes.

La technique présentée ici utilise des bocaux ½ pinte (236 ml) ou des verres à boire et un substrat fait de vermiculite, de farine de riz et d'eau. Le substrat est mélangé, stérilisé et inoculé avec des spores de champignons. Une fois la colonisation du substrat achevée, le fruitaison se passe dans une boîte en plastic.

!!A propos de la proprete

Dès que vous cultivez des champignons à l'intérieur sur un substrat préparé artificiellement, vous créez des conditions qui ne favorisent pas seulement la croissance des champignons que vous essayez de cultiver mais aussi d'un immense nombre d'autres organismes, beaucoup d'entre eux étant hazardeux pour la santé.
Afin de s'assurer que seul le champignon choisi poussera, il est d'une grande importance de s'assurer une propreté impecable dans toutes les phases de la
cultivation.

Avant de travailler, lavez-vous les mains avec du savon antibactériel et de l'eau chaude. Ensuite, frottez-vous bien avec du Lysol ou de l'alcool isopropyl.
Gardez la chambre où vous pratiquez l'inoculation et la culture sans poussière et propre et n'ammenez pas de vêtements sales ou des chaussures. L'hygiène personnelle est également très importante. Par exemple des cheveux sales sont une aubaine pour toutes sortes de microorganismes qui peuvent faire beaucoup de mal à votre projet de culture. Idem avec les mains sales.
Changed lines 35-39 from:
!!Materials

Most materials are easily avaliable at the local shops.

!!
Vermiculite
to:
!!Materiaux

!!
Vermiculite
Changed lines 40-44 from:
[[http://www.schundler.com/techverm.htm | Vermiculite]] is made from a naturally occurring mineral - [[http://www.discovermyvillage.com/Articles/minerals/mica.html | mica]].
Crushed mica containing water is heated and expands to a volume several times greater than that of the untreated
mica.
Vermiculite is able to hold several times its own weight in water and it gives the substrate an airy
structure.
Vermiculite is available in several grades, the middle and the middle-fine grade are most suitable for cultivation purposes
.
to:
La vermiculite est confectionnée à partir d'un minéral se trouvant à l'état naturelle - le mica.
Du
mica pulvérisé contenant de l'eau est chauffé et subit ainsi une expansion qui lui donne un volume plusieurs fois supérieur à celui du mica non traité.
La vermiculite a la propriété de contenir plusieurs fois son propre poids en eau et donne au substrat une
structure aérée.
La vermiculite se trouve sous plusieurs qualités. La qualité moyenne et la moyenne-fine sont les plus appropriés pour les cultures.
De manière générale, on peut trouver de la vermiculite dans les jardins, les magasins d'hydroculture et dans quelques régions également dans les magasins pour animaux
.
Changed lines 49-70 from:
!!Online sources for vermiculite and perlite

'''USA'''
%target=blank%[[http
://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/vermiculite|vermiculite @ ebay]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/perlite|perlite @ ebay]] 
%target=blank%[[http://www
.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+vermiculite+site:.com+-schundler|vermiculite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+perlite+site:.com+-schundler|perlite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=vermiculite|vermiculite @ Froogle]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=perlite|perlite @ Froogle]]

'''Canada'''
[[http://www.hydroponics.com/pricing/index.html | www.hydroponics.com]]

'''United Kingdom'''
[[http://www.gro-lite.co.uk/hydroponics.htm | www
.gro-lite.co.uk]]

'''Australia'''
[[http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/mediums.htm#verm | users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/]]

Vermiculite is generally available in garden and hydrophonic stores, in some regions also in pet shops.

!!Brown rice flour
(BRF)
to:
!!Sources en ligne pour la vermiculite et la perlite

France:
http://www.puteaux-sa.fr/885perli.htm

La
vermiculite est généralement disponible dans le jardin et les magasins hydrophonic, dans quelques régions également dans des magasins de bêtes.

!!Farine de riz complet
La farine de riz complet se trouve dans les magasins bio, soit déjà moulue soit, la plus part du temps, en grain
.
Dans ce cas, vous pouvez faire moudre les grains dans le magasin
. Si ceci n'est pas possible, utilisez un moulin à café éléctrique pour moudre votre riz.
La farine de riz complet est à conserver dans un endroit sec et frais car elle peut devenir rance à cause des graisses contenues dans les cosses.
Si vous n'arrivez pas à trouver de la farine de riz complet, vous pouvez également utiliser du blé complet ou dela farine de seigle pour des résultats similaires.

(:cell:)[[Pfpics:brownrice.jpg|Pfpics:brownrice_small.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!L'eau
L'eau utilisée pour la préparation du substrat devrait avoir les qualités d'une eau de table. Si vous n'en êtes pas sûr, utilisez plutôt de l'eau à boire en bouteille ou de l'eau minérale.

!!La seringue de spores
Changed lines 71-78 from:
BRF is available in health food shops either already ground, sometimes though there is only whole brown rice available.
In this case you can grind the rice either in the shop or, if this option is not available
, grind your own using an electrical coffee grinder.
BRF is best kept cool and dry for prolonged periods of time, since it can easily become rancid because of the fat content of its husk.
If you are unable to find BRF you can also use whole wheat- or rye flour with similar results
. Ground millet or ground millet based birdseed also work good.
[[http://www.google.com/search?q=%22%2Bbrown%2B%2Brice%2B%2Bflour%22%2B-cookies%2B-muffins%2B-bread|Google search for BRF]]
[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22brown%2Brice%2Bflour%22%2B-buttermilk%2B-chicken%2B-pasta%2B-syrup%2B-gravy%2B-lamb%2B-pantry%2B-beef%2B-shampoo%2B-glucan%2B-crackers | Froogle search for BRF]]

(:cell:)[[Pfpics:brownrice.jpg|Pfpics:brownrice_small
.jpg]]
to:
Une seringue en plastic avec une aiguille attachée, contenant 10 cc - 12 cc d'une solution de spores en suspension dans de l'eau. La couleur de la suspension varie de complètement translucide à un violet léger, suivant la quantité de spores se trouvant dans la solution.
Les spores sont microscopiques, alors si vous parvenez à repèrer au moins quelques petites tâches dans une eau plus ou moins claire, la seringue devrait contenir plein de spores.
Se trouve sur internet par l'intermédiaire de:
 
[[http://www.sporeworks.com/ | www
.sporeworks.com]]
[[http://www.thehawkseye.com/ | www.thehawkseye.com]]
et beaucoup
[[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | d'autres]]. 

(:cell:)
[[Pfpics:spritze
.jpg | Pfpics:spritze_klein.jpg]]
Changed lines 83-86 from:
!!Water 
Water used for the substrate preparation should have drinking water quality. Tap water is usually ok, but if you're not sure about it, better use bottled drinking water or mineral water.

!!Spore syringe
to:
!!Les bocaux
Changed lines 86-93 from:
A plastic syringe with needle attached containing 10cc -12cc suspension of mushroom spores in water.
The color of the suspension varies from completely translucent to slightly violet depending on the quantity of the spores in the solution.
Spores are microscopic so as long as you see at least a few specs in more or less clear water the syringe should have plenty of spores.  Available through the internet, for instance
 
[[http://www
.sporeworks.com/ | www.sporeworks.com]]
[[http://www.thehawkseye.com/ | www.thehawkseye.com]]
and many [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | more]].

to:
Les bocaux devraient avoir une capacité d'une demi pinte (236 ml).
Vous pouvez utiliser soit des bocaux à stériliser (Ball, Kerr, …) ou des verres à boire. La seule exigence est qu'ils soient fuselé et sans bordure intérieure, c'est à dire que le fond du verre ou du bocal ne doit pas être plus large que l'embouchure car il ne serait pas approprié pour démouler le cake une fois celui-ci colonisé
.
Changed line 90 from:
[[Pfpics:spritze.jpg | Pfpics:spritze_klein.jpg]]
to:
[[Pfpics:glaeser.jpg|Pfpics:glaeser_klein.jpg]]
Changed lines 93-94 from:
!!Jars
to:
====
!!Préparation du substrat
Changed lines 97-100 from:
The jars should have a content of around ½ pint (~240ml)
You can use either canning jars (Ball, Kerr...) or drinking glasses, the only requirement is that they are tapered and without shoulders, so you can slide the cake out of it in one piece once it
's colonized. Bigger jars take much longer to colonize and are not recommended.
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23249 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the USA?]]
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23257 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the UK? ]]
to:
For one ½ pint jar(236 ml) you will need:
=> è 140 ml de vermiculite
=> 40 ml de farine de riz complet
=> è un peu de vermiculite pour remplir le bocal jusqu'au sommet (à peu près 20 ml)
=> è de l
'eau.
Changed lines 104-109 from:
[[Pfpics:glaeser.jpg|Pfpics:glaeser_klein.jpg]]
(
:tableend:)

====
!!Substrate preparation
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0
:)
to:
Pfpics:zutaten.jpg 

(
:cellnr:)
Placez la quantité nécessaire de vermiculite pour tous les bocaux d'une couvé dans un bol (par exemple 6 bocaux : 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml)
Changed lines 110-121 from:
For one ½ pint jar(~240 ml) you will need: 
=> 140 ml vermiculite
=>  40 ml brown rice flour
=>  some vermiculite to fill the jar to the top (app. 20 ml)
=> water

Note:
½pt(pint) = 1 cup = 236ml(milliliter) = 236cc(cubic centimeter) = 1/4 qt(quart)
The cups, pints and quarts are in the US liquid measuring system.
(:cell:)
Pfpics:zutaten
.jpg
to:
Pfpics:mischen1.jpg
Deleted lines 112-117:
Put the required amount of vermiculite for all the jars of one batch (for instance 6 jars: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ) in a bowl.

(:cell:)
Pfpics:mischen1.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Added line 195:
Changed lines 200-201 from:
To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
to:
To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
 
Added line 207:
Added line 261:
Added line 336:
Added lines 1-386:
(:noautosections:)

====
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0 width=100% align=center:)
(:cell:)
Pfpics:shroom_zwerg1.gif

(:cell:)
%center%'+PF-Tek for Simple Minds+'
%center%for the cultivation of grain - loving mushrooms
%center%(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
%center%'-( updated: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

(:cell:)
Pfpics:shroom_zwerg.gif
(:tableend:)

====
The [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] was developed and first made public in 1992 by [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
This tek made the cultivation of mushrooms at home feasible for complete beginners utilizing commonly available materials.
The growing method I  describe here is based on the PF-tek but includes a few modifications that are time tested, and are, in my opinion, superior to the original PF-tek.
I strongly recommend you to read the original  [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], if you haven't done so already, to see a different approach to some steps.

The PF-Tek for Simple Minds uses ½ pint (~240ml) canning jars or drinking glasses and a growing substrate made of vermiculite, brown rice flour and water. The substrate is prepared, sterilized and inoculated with mushroom spores. After the substrate is fully colonized the fruiting takes place in a humid container.

!!On the subject of cleanliness

By growing mushrooms indoors on a nutritious substrate, you create conditions than not only favor the growth of the mushrooms, but also favor the growth of a large number of other organisms, many of them hazardous to the health.  To ensure that only the desired mushroom is grown, it is very important to assure cleanliness in all of the cultivation related procedures.

Before you work, wash your hands with (antibacterial) soap and warm water. Afterwards, wipe them dry and rub with Lysol or isopropyl-alcohol(iso-propanol).  Keep the rooms where you do the inoculation and fruiting dust free and clean and don't bring in dirty clothing or shoes.  Equally important is personal hygiene. Dirty hands, and even dirty hair, are a hotbed for all kinds of unwanted microorganisms which can destroy your cultivation project.

====
!!Materials

Most materials are easily avaliable at the local shops.

!!Vermiculite
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
[[http://www.schundler.com/techverm.htm | Vermiculite]] is made from a naturally occurring mineral - [[http://www.discovermyvillage.com/Articles/minerals/mica.html | mica]].
Crushed mica containing water is heated and expands to a volume several times greater than that of the untreated mica.
Vermiculite is able to hold several times its own weight in water and it gives the substrate an airy structure.
Vermiculite is available in several grades, the middle and the middle-fine grade are most suitable for cultivation purposes.

(:cell:) [[Pfpics:vermiculite.jpg|Pfpics:vermiculite_small.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Online sources for vermiculite and perlite

'''USA'''
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/vermiculite|vermiculite @ ebay]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/perlite|perlite @ ebay]] 
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+vermiculite+site:.com+-schundler|vermiculite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+perlite+site:.com+-schundler|perlite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=vermiculite|vermiculite @ Froogle]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=perlite|perlite @ Froogle]]

'''Canada'''
[[http://www.hydroponics.com/pricing/index.html | www.hydroponics.com]]

'''United Kingdom'''
[[http://www.gro-lite.co.uk/hydroponics.htm | www.gro-lite.co.uk]]

'''Australia'''
[[http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/mediums.htm#verm | users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/]]

Vermiculite is generally available in garden and hydrophonic stores, in some regions also in pet shops.

!!Brown rice flour (BRF)
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
BRF is available in health food shops either already ground, sometimes though there is only whole brown rice available.
In this case you can grind the rice either in the shop or, if this option is not available, grind your own using an electrical coffee grinder.
BRF is best kept cool and dry for prolonged periods of time, since it can easily become rancid because of the fat content of its husk.
If you are unable to find BRF you can also use whole wheat- or rye flour with similar results. Ground millet or ground millet based birdseed also work good.
[[http://www.google.com/search?q=%22%2Bbrown%2B%2Brice%2B%2Bflour%22%2B-cookies%2B-muffins%2B-bread|Google search for BRF]]
[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22brown%2Brice%2Bflour%22%2B-buttermilk%2B-chicken%2B-pasta%2B-syrup%2B-gravy%2B-lamb%2B-pantry%2B-beef%2B-shampoo%2B-glucan%2B-crackers | Froogle search for BRF]]

(:cell:)[[Pfpics:brownrice.jpg|Pfpics:brownrice_small.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Water 
Water used for the substrate preparation should have drinking water quality. Tap water is usually ok, but if you're not sure about it, better use bottled drinking water or mineral water.

!!Spore syringe
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
A plastic syringe with needle attached containing 10cc -12cc suspension of mushroom spores in water.
The color of the suspension varies from completely translucent to slightly violet depending on the quantity of the spores in the solution.
Spores are microscopic so as long as you see at least a few specs in more or less clear water the syringe should have plenty of spores.  Available through the internet, for instance
 
[[http://www.sporeworks.com/ | www.sporeworks.com]]
[[http://www.thehawkseye.com/ | www.thehawkseye.com]]
and many [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | more]].

(:cell:)
[[Pfpics:spritze.jpg | Pfpics:spritze_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Jars
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
The jars should have a content of around ½ pint (~240ml)
You can use either canning jars (Ball, Kerr...) or drinking glasses, the only requirement is that they are tapered and without shoulders, so you can slide the cake out of it in one piece once it's colonized. Bigger jars take much longer to colonize and are not recommended.
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23249 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the USA?]]
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23257 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the UK? ]]
(:cell:)
[[Pfpics:glaeser.jpg|Pfpics:glaeser_klein.jpg]]
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====
!!Substrate preparation
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For one ½ pint jar(~240 ml) you will need: 
=> 140 ml vermiculite
=>  40 ml brown rice flour
=>  some vermiculite to fill the jar to the top (app. 20 ml)
=> water

Note:
½pt(pint) = 1 cup = 236ml(milliliter) = 236cc(cubic centimeter) = 1/4 qt(quart)
The cups, pints and quarts are in the US liquid measuring system.
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Pfpics:zutaten.jpg

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Put the required amount of vermiculite for all the jars of one batch (for instance 6 jars: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ) in a bowl.

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Pfpics:mischen1.jpg

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Pour water slowly over the vermiculite while stirring with a spoon.
Be careful to only put that much water in as it can be absorbed by the vermiculite. Stir it well so all the vermiculite is uniformly soaked with water.

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Pfpics:verm_wasser.jpg Pfpics:vermiculite_wet.jpg

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When you tilt the bowl you should see just a little water starting coming from the vermiculite.
This is when the correct water content is achieved.
If there is too much water in the bowl, pour the wet vermiculite in a strainer and let the excess water drain for a minute. Then the vermiculite will be at the field capacity, which is perfect.

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Pfpics:wassergeh.jpg

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Now put the required amount of the BRF (for instance 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) into the wet vermiculite at once and mix it in with the spoon. The goal is to uniformly coat the wet vermiculite particles with a layer of BRF.

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Pfpics:vermiculite_brf.jpg Pfpics:vermiculite_brf_stirr.jpg[[<<]]Pfpics:vermiculite_brf_stirred.jpg

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Fill the mixture in jars ½ inch (1cm) under the top. it's very important to fill the substrate in the jars without tapping it down at all. It should stay very airy and loose to provide optimum conditions for the growth of mycelium.
Be careful not to leave any substrate on the upper edge of the jar. If you weren't careful enough and there are some substrate specks at the edge take a clean moist cloth and wipe the upper portion of the jar clean. Otherwise contaminants can start at those spots and work their way down into the jar.

(:cell width=350:)
Pfpics:glas_leer.jpg Pfpics:glas_befuellen.jpg[[<<]]Pfpics:glas_voll.jpg

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Fill up the jar with dry vermiculite to the top.
This layer hinders airborne contaminants reaching the underlying substrate in case they manage to come in during the inoculation and incubation.

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Pfpics:jar_fill.jpg Pfpics:jar_filled.jpg

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Take a 5inch(12cm) wide stripe of aluminium foil and fold it in the middle.
Put the foil over the opening of the jar as shown in the pictures. If you're using jars with metal lids, you can poke 4 holes at the very edge of each lid with a small nail and hammer and screw the lid on. The holes should be slightly bigger than the diameter of the syringe needle.

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Pfpics:image034.jpg Pfpics:image036.jpg [[<<]]Pfpics:image038.jpg Pfpics:image040.jpg

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Fold the foil edges up and press them together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid.

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Pfpics:image042.jpg

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Then take a piece of foil measuring 5in x 5in in and put it over the first two layers (respectively the metal lid if you're using lids) leaving the edges of the foil reaching down, since it has to be lifted again during the inoculation.
So now you have 3 layers of foil over the opening. The top layer is lifted during the inoculation.

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Pfpics:image044.jpg Pfpics:image046.jpg Pfpics:image048.jpg
(:tableend:)

====
!!Sterilization
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Pour approximately 1inch (2.5cm) of water into the pressure cooker, don't put in too much water otherwise it will come into the jars and alter their water content.
Then stack the jars into the pressure cooker. The use of a rack to keep the jars from directly touching the bottom of the cooker is strongly recommended.
Put the lid on and bring the cooker to the required pressure (15 psi = 1atm over atmospheric pressure) slowly over a period of 15 minutes on a medium flame.

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Pfpics:6glas.jpg Pfpics:skt_leer.jpg
Pfpics:skt_offen.jpg Pfpics:skt_aussen.jpg 
(:tableend:)

If you heat up the cooker too fast this can cause the jars to crack.
As soon as the steam begins to escape the rocker or the vent at the top of the pressure cooker turn the heat back so only a very small, steady steam flow persists from the vent. From this point on, pressure cook for 45 minutes.
Depending on the pressure cooker model the cooking procedure works a bit different so if you're not familiar with pressure cooking consult the instruction manual or someone who used pressure cookers before.
After 45 min take the cooker from the flame and let cool for at least 5 hours or even better over night.
If you are unable to find or buy a pressure cooker, you can also sterilize the jars using a big pot with a lid.
In this case steam the jars for 1.5 hours in a pot lid on. Use only approximately 1 inch of water at the bottom.
You might have to add some water to the pot during steaming due to evaporation.
If you never have used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].

====
!!Inoculation
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After the cooker is cold to the touch take the jars out and place them on a clean surface, have an alcohol lamp or a lighter and the spore syringe ready. Shake the spore syringe to break up the spore clumps.
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Pfpics:glas_spritze.jpg Pfpics:schuett.jpg

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To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
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Pfpics:flamme.jpg

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Loosen the foil from all of the jars so it can be lifted easily when you inoculate.
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Pfpics:glas_foile_auf.jpg

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Take the cover from the needle and heat it over the flame until glowing red. Let cool for a few seconds

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Pfpics:flamme.jpg

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Take the upper foil layer off and put aside upside down.

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Pfpics:glas_ofolie.jpg

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Pierce the foil at the edge of the jar with the needle app. 1in(2.5cm) deep and inject the spore suspension towards the inner jar surface. You should see a small drop running down the inner surface of the jar towards the bottom. Each jar is inoculated on 4 equally spaced points. You should use 1 - 1.5 ml of the spore suspension per jar so one 10ml syringe is sufficient for 6 -10 jars.

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Pfpics:glas_impfen.jpg Pfpics:glas_beimpft.jpg

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Put the foil on again. Flame sterilize the needle again after inoculating 3 jars to prevent cross contamination just in case a jar wasn't properly sterilized.
When all of the jars are inoculated fold the foil edges up and press them firmly together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid. Write the inoculation date and the species/strain information on the foil with an all surface felt tip pen. If you touch something other with the needle during the inoculation procedure except the foil surface of the bottom foil layer immediately flame sterilize the tip again.

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Pfpics:image072.jpg Pfpics:image074.jpg
(:tableend:)

====
!!Incubation

The jars should be stored at 21-27°C (70-81°F), the warmer the better, but not exceeding 27°C. If you don't have these temperatures at home you can build an incubator to accommodate the jars.

!!Incubator

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The inoculated jars develop fastest if they are stored at a temperature of 27°C (80°F) (According to Stamets the best incubation temperature for ''P. cubensis'' would be 86°F, but since the jars themselves are a few degrees warmer than the surroundings (mycelium emits heat when growing) 80°F is a good and safe incubator temperature)

You can build an effective incubator by using two plastic boxes of the same size and an aquarium heater. 
There are several types of aquarium heaters. When you´re buying a heater, make sure that it is of the "fully submersible" type. 
Attach the heater to the bottom of the first box and pour in as much 27°C warm water that the heater is completely submerged.
Adjust the heaters thermostat so that the heater just shuts itself off at 27°C .
Put some spacers on the bottom of the box, they carry the second box and prevent it from touching the heater. In the above picture 4 jars are used. You could also use bricks, stones or something similar.

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Pfpics:inkubator1.jpg
[[Pfpics:waterlevel.gif | Pfpics:waterlevel_small.gif]]

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Put the second box in the one containing water.
After a few hours measure the temperature again and adjust the heater if necessary so the water temperature is 27°C.
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Pfpics:inkubator2.jpg

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When the box is empty, it will float on the water.
The water level in the lower box should reach app. 2/3 the height of the box, supposing the upper box is in place loaded with jars and resting on the spacers.

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[[Pfpics:waterlevel2.jpg | Pfpics:waterlevel2_small.jpg]]

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Now you can put the inoculated jars into the box.

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Pfpics:inkubator3.jpg

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Cover the jars with a blanket to keep the heat escaping and to keep the jars dark. Note: the water level drops in some weeks by evaporation. Therefore you have to fill some fresh water in from time to time to keep the water level high enough. Never let evaporate so much water that the heater isn´t submerged in water anymore! You can get all of the above items at [[http://www.tkqlhce.com/7o70uoxuowBDJKGCLGBHLCECIL | www.ebay.com]] for a very good price.

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Pfpics:inkubator4.jpg
(:tableend:)

====
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Providing the jars are kept warm you should see the first sign of germination after 3-5 days as bright white specks. This is mycelium. If anything grows that is not white, for instance green, black or pink, then the jars are contaminated and their content must be discarded and your clean procedures need some improvement. After the jars are emptied and the jar is washed with detergent and hot water it can be used again. 
Check the [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]] for more information on possible contaminations in mushroom culture.

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[[Pfpics:kol1.jpg | Pfpics:kol1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol2.jpg | Pfpics:kol2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol3.jpg | Pfpics:kol3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol4.jpg | Pfpics:kol4_klein.jpg]]

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Depending on the temperature and the viability of the spore syringe it takes 14-28 days for the mycelium to colonize the whole jar. Once colonized store the jars at normal room temperature, about 21°C (70°F) to initiate pinning.
Don't expose the jars to direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight (= the natural light that lights up a room because at day time out) or a low wattage lamp (cool white fluorescent lamp is ideal, incandescent lamp is less suitable) for 4-12 hours a day is sufficient.

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[[Pfpics:glas_bewachsen.jpg | Pfpics:glas_bewachsen_klein.jpg]]

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Within 5-10 days (with certain mushroom strains it can however take up to 30 days) pinhead-size accumulations of mycelium should form. These so called pins represent the beginning of mushroom growth. In the following days also small mushrooms with brown heads become visible. When this is the case it's time to birth the cake into the fruiting container where the mushrooms can develop to maturity.
Some strains don't easily develop pins. In this case put the colonized jar wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge over night and then proceed to [[http://www.fungifun.org/pf/fruiting.htm | fruiting]] next day, even if the cake doesn´t show pins yet. This cold shocking usually helps trigger pinning somewhat.

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[[Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_1.jpg | Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_1_klein.jpg ]]
[[Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_2.jpg | Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_2_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

====
!!Fruiting
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The fruiting of the cakes can be accomplished in any sort of container that can be loosely sealed and has at least one translucent side, preferably on the top. Suitable containers are a plastic bucket, rubbermaid container, terrarium, aquarium...
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down. Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease.

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Pfpics:kuebel.jpg [[Pfpics:jar_slam.jpg | Pfpics:jar_slam_small.jpg]]

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If you have a bigger fruiting chamber (a bigger plastic container or a terrarium) you can of course put in more than one cake to fruit.
The distance between the cakes should be at least 2" (5cm) for the mushrooms have room to grow. Put a sheet of translucent plastic over the opening of the fruiting container. Take this sheet off once a day and fan the air out with a piece of cardboard. If the bottom layer begins to dry out, spray it with some water to keep it moist since this layer provides moisture for the air to stay very humid. Don&acute;t spray the cakes directly.
Handle the cakes as little as possible but when you do it allways wash your hands thouroughly beforehand.
Over a course of the bext 7-14 days the cakes will begin to pin(if the haven't began to pin in the jars yet) and the small mushrooms will grow big in a matter of 2-5 days and as soon the caps begin to open they can be harvested.
This simultanious maturation of all mushrooms is called a flush.

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[[Pfpics:gt1.jpg | Pfpics:gt1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt2.jpg | Pfpics:gt2_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt3.jpg | Pfpics:gt3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt4.jpg | Pfpics:gt4_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt5.jpg | Pfpics:gt5_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt6.jpg | Pfpics:gt6_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt7.jpg | Pfpics:gt7_klein.jpg]]

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After the mushrooms have grown big there are usually a few small, stunted mushrooms left over, they are called aborts. They can be recognized by their blackish heads and the fact that they stopped growing at some point. Still they are good to use unless they are rotten.
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[[Pfpics:aborts1_big.jpg | Pfpics:aborts1.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

It's crucial that you harvest all mushrooms, also the aborts, after the flush. This is most easily accomplished if you harvest the mushrooms off by gently twisting and tearing them off the cake with clean hands. Optionally you can [[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.

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After approximately one week small mushrooms begin to form again and mature during the next days.
This cycle can repeat itself up to 4 times sometimes even more. After that the cake is exhausted it produces no more mushrooms and can be discarded. They can be also used to start [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | outdoor beds]].

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[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_0.jpg | Pfpics:cake_2flush_0_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_2flush_1.jpg | Pfpics:cake_2flush_1_klein.jpg]]

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Sometimes green mold attacks the cakes even before they are completely exhausted. If this is the case remove and discard the contaminated cakes immediately to prevent the spreading of the contamination.

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[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_2.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_2flush_3.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_3_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_4.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_4_klein.jpg]]

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3'^rd^' flush:

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[[Pfpics:cake_3flush_1.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_2.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_3.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_4.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_4_klein.jpg]]

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4'^th^' and final  flush:

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[[Pfpics:cake_4flush.jpg|Pfpics:cake_4flush_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)
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Page last modified on July 07, 2011, at 02:56 AM