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>>yellowbox<<

%center%'+I made a video of the substrate preparation and inoculation:+'
%center%%newwin%http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iFi3YrIo7o

>><<
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%center%(:youtube 3iFi3YrIo7o:)
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%define=yellowbox box bgcolor=#fff7cb border='1px solid #ffad80'%
>>yellowbox<<

%center%'+I made a video of the substrate preparation and inoculation:+'
%center%%newwin%http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iFi3YrIo7o

>><<

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Alternativno možete [[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html|potopiti(dunk)]] kolače posle svakog flush-a kako bi se povećala veličina i količina pečurki u narednom flush-u
to:
Alternativno možete [[http://www.thenook.org/archives/dunktek.htm|potopiti(dunk)]] kolače posle svakog flush-a kako bi se povećala veličina i količina pečurki u narednom flush-u
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 [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].
to:
 [[English/Pressure-Cooker-Use | correct pressure cooker use]].
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[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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[[English/Contact | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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====
(:noautosections:)
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[[#a1]]
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(:title PF-Tek na nednostavan način:)
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(:title PF-Tek na jednostavan način:)
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(:title PF-Tek na Jednostavan Način:)
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(:title PF-Tek na nednostavan način:)
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(:cell align=center:)
!PF-Tek na jednostavan način
jednostavna metoda za uzgajanje pečurki
(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
'-( modifikacija: {$LastModified} )-'
'-komentari i predlozi su uvek dobtodošli-'
[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

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%center%'+PF-Tek na Jednostavan Način+'
%center%jednostavna metoda za uzgajanje pečurki
%center%(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
%center%'-( modifikacija: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-komentari i predlozi su uvek dobtodošli-'
%center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

(:cell:)
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!!Vermiculite
to:
!!!Vermiculite
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!!Online resursi za vermikulit i perlit



!!Brašno od braon pirinča( Brown rice flour- BRF)
to:
!!!Online resursi za vermikulit i perlit

!!!Brašno od braon pirinča( Brown rice flour- BRF)
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!!Voda 
to:
!!!Voda 
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!!Špic sa sporama
to:
!!!Špic sa sporama
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!!Tegle
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!!!Tegle
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[[#a3|Sterilizatija]]
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[[#a3|Sterilizacija]]
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[[#a4|Inokulatija]]
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[[#a4|Inokulacija]]
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====
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====
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(:title PF-Tek na Jednostavan Način:)
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====
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(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0 width=100% align=center:)
(:cell:)
[[#a1|Materiali]]
(:cell:)
[[#a2|Substrat]]
(:cell:)
[[#a3|Sterilizatija]]
(:cell:)
[[#a4|Inokulatija]]
(:cell:)
[[#a5|Inkubacija]]
(:cell:)
[[#a6|Razvoj]]
(:tableend:)

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====
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====[[#a1]]
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!!Substrate preparation
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====[[#a2]]
!!Substrat
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%center%'+PF-Tek for Simple Minds+'
%center%for the cultivation of grain - loving mushrooms
to:
%center%'+PF-Tek na Jednostavan Način+'
%center%jednostavna metoda za uzgajanje pečurki
Changed lines 12-14 from:
%center%'-( updated: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
to:
%center%'-( modifikacija: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-komentari i predlozi su uvek dobtodošli-'
%center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
Changed lines 21-33 from:
The [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] was developed and first made public in 1992 by [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
This tek made the cultivation of mushrooms at home feasible for complete beginners utilizing commonly available materials.
The growing method I  describe here is based on the
PF-tek but includes a few modifications that are time tested, and are, in my opinion, superior to the original PF-tek.
I strongly recommend you to read the original 
[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], if you haven't done so already, to see a different approach to some steps.

The PF-Tek for Simple Minds uses ½ pint (
~240ml) canning jars or drinking glasses and a growing substrate made of vermiculite, brown rice flour and water. The substrate is prepared, sterilized and inoculated with mushroom spores. After the substrate is fully colonized the fruiting takes place in a humid container.

!!On the subject of cleanliness

By growing mushrooms indoors on a nutritious substrate, you create conditions than not only favor the growth of the mushrooms, but also favor the growth of a large number of other organisms, many of them hazardous to the health.  To ensure that only the desired mushroom is grown, it is very important to assure cleanliness in all of the cultivation related procedures.

Before you work, wash your hands with (antibacterial) soap and warm water. Afterwards, wipe them dry and rub with Lysol or isopropyl-alcohol(iso-propanol).  Keep the rooms where you do the inoculation and fruiting dust free and clean and don't bring in dirty clothing or shoes.  Equally important is personal hygiene. Dirty hands
, and even dirty hair, are a hotbed for all kinds of unwanted microorganisms which can destroy your cultivation project.
to:
[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] prvi put je pretstavljen javnosti 1992 od strane [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
Ovaj tek omogućio je uzgajanje pečurki kod kuće, upotrebljavajući najčešće dostupne materijale, i podesan je za potpune početnike
Medot za uzgajenje koji je ovde pretstavljen, je baziran na
PF-tek-u ali uključuje nekoliko izmena koji su vremenom testirani, i po meni superiorniji od originalnog PF-tek-a.
Preporučujem da pročitate [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], ako do sada niste, da bi videli drugarčiji pristup nekim koracima.

U Tek-u koji je ovde predstavljen koristimo tegle ili čase za piće od
~240ml i substrat koji se pravi od vermikulita, brašna od braon pirinča i vode. Substrat se meša, strerilizuje i inokulira sa sporama pečurki. Nakon sto je supstrat potpuno kolonizovan, rast pečurki se odvija u plastičnom kontenjeru.

!!O čistoći

Kada počinjete da gajite pečurke u kuci, na vestačkom pripremljnom substratu, stvarate uslove koji nisu samo pogodni za rast pečurki koje pokušavate da gajite, već takodje i za ogroman broj drugih organizama, od kojih je vecina opasna po zdravlje.
Da bi bili sigurni da uzgajate samo izabranu vrstu pečurke, od velike važnosti je da obezbedite  čistoću u svim procedurama koje se tiču uzgajanja pečurki.
Pre nego sto počnete da radite operite ruke antibakterijskim sapunom i toplom vodom, nakon toga obrišite
sve površine Lizolom ili isopropyl alkoholom.
Sobe u kojima vršite inokulaciju i cvetanje pečurki, održavajte čistim, bez prašine, ne unosite prljavu odeću i obuću. Jednako važna je i lična higijena, prljava kosa naprimer je stanište za sve vrste neželjenih mikroorganizama koji mogu oštetiti vas proces uzgajanja pečurki
, ista stvar je i sa prljavim rukama.
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!!Materials

Most materials are easily avaliable at the local shops.

to:
!!Materiali
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[[http://www.schundler.com/techverm.htm | Vermiculite]] is made from a naturally occurring mineral - [[http://www.discovermyvillage.com/Articles/minerals/mica.html | mica]].
Crushed mica containing water is heated and expands to a volume several times greater than that of the untreated mica.
Vermiculite is able to hold several times its own weight in water and it gives the substrate an airy structure.
Vermiculite is available in several grades, the middle and the middle-fine grade are most suitable for cultivation purposes
.
to:
Vermikulit se dobija od  prirodnog minerala - mica.
Izmrvljena mica koja sadrži vodu se greje i širi  do nivoa nekoliko puta večeg od neobrađene mice.
Vermikulit ima  sposobnost da zadrži nekoliko puta veću količinu vode od svoje težine i daje supstratu vazdušastu strukturu
.
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!!Online sources for vermiculite and perlite

'''USA'''
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click
-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/vermiculite|vermiculite @ ebay]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/perlite|perlite @ ebay]] 
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+vermiculite+site:.com+-schundler|vermiculite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+perlite+site:.com+-schundler|perlite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=vermiculite|vermiculite @ Froogle]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=perlite|perlite @ Froogle]]

'''Canada'''
[[http://www.hydroponics.com/pricing/index.html | www.hydroponics.com]]

'''United Kingdom'''
[[http://www.gro-lite.co.uk/hydroponics.htm | www.gro-lite.co.uk]]

'''Australia'''
[[http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/mediums.htm#verm | users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/]]

Vermiculite is generally available in garden and hydrophonic stores, in some regions also in pet shops.

!!Brown rice flour (
BRF)
to:
!!Online resursi za vermikulit i perlit



!!Brašno od braon pirinča( Brown rice flour
- BRF)
Changed lines 56-62 from:
BRF is available in health food shops either already ground, sometimes though there is only whole brown rice available.
In this case you can grind the rice either in the shop or, if this option is not available, grind your own using an electrical coffee grinder
.
BRF is best kept cool and dry for prolonged periods of time, since it can easily become rancid because of the fat content of its husk.
If you are unable to find BRF you can also use whole wheat- or rye flour with similar results
. Ground millet or ground millet based birdseed also work good.
[[http://www.google.com/search?q=%22%2Bbrown%2B%2Brice%2B%2Bflour%22%2B-cookies%2B-muffins%2B-bread|Google search for BRF]]
[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22brown%2Brice%2Bflour%22%2B-buttermilk%2B-chicken%2B-pasta%2B-syrup%2B-gravy%2B-lamb%2B-pantry%2B-beef%2B-shampoo%2B-glucan%2B-crackers | Froogle search for BRF]]

to:
BRF je dostupan u prodavnicama zdrave hrane i pet šopovima, vec samleven, međutim  ponekad je dostupan samo ceo braon pirinač.
U ovom slučaju možete samlesti pirinač u prodavnici koja ima aparat za mlevenje, ako ova opcija nije moguća, sameljite pirinač u električnom aparatu za meljenje kafe
.
BRF treba čuvati na hladnom i suvom mestu, pošto lako može da užegne zbog masti koju sadrži njegova ljuska.
Ukoliko niste u mogućnosti da nađete braon pirinač možete koristiti pšenicu ili  ražano brašno sa sličnim rezultatima
.
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!!Water 
Water used for the substrate preparation should have drinking water quality. Tap water is usually ok, but if you're not sure about it, better use bottled drinking water or mineral water.

!!Spore syringe
to:
!!Voda 
Voda  koju nameravate da upotebite za pravljenje supstrata treba da ima kvalitet pijaće vode. Voda iz česme je obično dobra
, ali ako nise sigurni, bolje je da upotrebite destilovanu vodu ili mineralnu vodu.

!!Špic sa sporama
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A plastic syringe with needle attached containing 10cc -12cc suspension of mushroom spores in water.
The color of the suspension varies from completely translucent to slightly violet depending on the quantity of the spores in the solution.
Spores are microscopic so as long as you see at least a few specs in more or less clear water the syringe should have plenty of spores.  Available through the internet, for instance
to:
Plastični špirc sa iglom koji sadrži 10cc-12cc suspenzije spora pečurki u vodi.
Boja suspenzije varira od kompletno providne do neznatno ljubičaste od zavisnosti od količine spora u u rastvoru.
Spore su mikroskopske, tako da sve dok vidite samo nekoliko malih crnih tačkica u vodi  šprica, budite sigurni da imate dovoljno spora.
Spore možete naručiti preko interneta, na primer
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and many [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | more]].
to:
i još na [[http://www.shroomery.org/sponsors.php | mnogo mesta]].
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!!Jars
to:
!!Tegle
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The jars should have a content of around ½ pint (~240ml)
You can use either canning jars (Ball, Kerr...) or drinking glasses, the only requirement is that they are tapered and without shoulders, so you can slide the cake out of it in one piece once it's colonized
. Bigger jars take much longer to colonize and are not recommended.
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23249 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the USA?]]
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23257 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the UK? ]]
to:
Tegle treba da budu od ~240ml. Možete upotrebiti ili tegle za konzerviranje ili čaše za piće, jedino treba da obratite pažnju da  je vrh širi od dna tegle odnosno čaše kako bi  kolač(supstrat) islkiznuo u jednom komadu kada  bude potpuno kolonizovan.
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For one ½ pint jar(~240 ml) you will need: 
=> 140 ml vermiculite
=>  40 ml brown rice flour
=>  some vermiculite to fill the jar to the top (app. 20 ml) 
=> water

Note:
½pt(pint) = 1 cup = 236ml(milliliter) = 236cc(cubic centimeter) = 1/4 qt(quart)
The cups, pints and quarts are in the US liquid measuring system.
to:
Za svaku teglu(času) od ~240 ml potrebno je:
=> 140 ml vermikulita
=> 40 ml brašna od braon pirinča
=>nešto  vermikulita da bi popunili času do vrha (približno 20 ml)
=> voda
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Put the required amount of vermiculite for all the jars of one batch (for instance 6 jars: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ) in a bowl.
to:
Stavite odgovarajucu količinu vermikulita za sve tegle jedne grupe(na primer 6 tegli: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ) u činiju
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Pour water slowly over the vermiculite while stirring with a spoon.
Be careful to only put that much water in as it can be absorbed by the vermiculite. Stir it well so all the vermiculite is uniformly soaked with water
.
to:
Polako sipajte vodu preko vermikulita dok mešate kašikom.
Obratite pažnju da stavite onu količinu vode koja može biti apsorbovana od strane vermikulita. Izmešajte dobro tako da je sav vermikulit jednako natopljen vodom
.
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When you tilt the bowl you should see just a little water starting coming from the vermiculite. 
This is when the correct water content is achieved.
If there is too much water in the bowl, pour the wet vermiculite in a strainer and let the excess water drain for a minute. Then the vermiculite will be at the field capacity, which is perfect.

to:
Kada nagnete činiju  treba da vidite samo malo vode kako počinje da izlazi iz vermikulita.
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Now put the required amount of the BRF (for instance 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) into the wet vermiculite at once and mix it in with the spoon. The goal is to uniformly coat the wet vermiculite particles with a layer of BRF.
to:
Sada stavite odgovarajuću količinu BRF (  na primer 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml)odjednom u mokar vermikulit  i  mešajte sa kašikom. Cilj je  da  jednako prekrijete mokar vermikulit slojem  brašna od braon pirinča.
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Fill the mixture in jars ½ inch (1cm) under the top. it's very important to fill the substrate in the jars without tapping it down at all. It should stay very airy and loose to provide optimum conditions for the growth of mycelium.
Be careful not to leave any substrate on the upper edge of the jar. If you weren't careful enough and there are some substrate specks at the edge take a clean moist cloth and wipe the upper portion of the jar clean. Otherwise contaminants can start at those spots and work their way down into the jar. 
to:
Napunite tegle supstratom 1/2 inča(1 cm) ispod vrha. Veoma je važno da kad sipate supstrat u teglu da ga ne sabijate u času. Suptsrat treba da bude opušten i omogući prolazak vazduha kako  bi omogućio optimalne uslove za rast micelije.
Budite veoma oprezni
  da ne ostavljate nimalo supstrata na gornjim ivicama tegle. Ako ne budete dovoljno oprezni, i ako slučajno ostane supstrata na ivicama, uzmite čistu vlažnu krpu i obrišite ivice. U suprotnom zaraza može započeti na tim mestima, i polako se  prosiriti  niz teglu.
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Fill up the jar with dry vermiculite to the top.
This layer hinders airborne contaminants reaching the underlying substrate in case they manage to come in during the inoculation and incubation.

to:
Zatim popunite teglu suvim vermikulitom do vrha.
Ovaj sloj sprečava  novorodjne kontaminate da prodru do supstrata u slucaju da uspeju da pokusaju da uđu tokom inokulacije i inkubacije

Changed lines 145-147 from:
Take a 5inch(12cm) wide stripe of aluminium foil and fold it in the middle.
Put the foil over the opening of the jar as shown in the pictures. If you're using jars with metal lids, you can poke 4 holes at the very edge of each lid with a small nail and hammer and screw the lid on. The holes should be slightly bigger than the diameter of the syringe needle
.
to:
Uzmite 12cm široku traku aluminijumske folije i savite po sredini.
Stavite foliju nad otvorom tegle kao sto je prikazano na slikama.
Ukoliko koristite tegle sa  metalnim poklopcima, probušite 4 rupe na samim krajevima svakog poklopca sa malim ekserom i čekićem i kada to završite zavrnite poklopac. Rupe bi trebalo da budu nešto veće od igle na špricu
.
Changed lines 153-154 from:
Fold the foil edges up and press them together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid. 
to:
Povrnite ivice folije na gore i  stisnite tako da dobijete poklopac od aluminijumske folije.
Changed lines 159-161 from:
Then take a piece of foil measuring 5in x 5in in and put it over the first two layers (respectively the metal lid if you're using lids) leaving the edges of the foil reaching down, since it has to be lifted again during the inoculation.
So now you have 3 layers of foil over the opening
. The top layer is lifted during the inoculation.
to:
Zatim uzmite parče folije 12 x 12 cm i stavite preko prva dva sloja (odnosno metalan poklopac ako koristite poklopce) ostavljajući ivice folije tako da dodiruju dno tegle, pošto će te morati da ih podignete za vreme inokulacije.
Sada imate 3 sloja folije nad otvorom, samo zadnji sloj se podiže za vreme inokulacije
.
Changed line 167 from:
!!Sterilization
to:
!!Sterilizacija
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Pour approximately 1inch (2.5cm) of water into the pressure cooker, don't put in too much water otherwise it will come into the jars and alter their water content.
Then stack the jars into the pressure cooker
. The use of a rack to keep the jars from directly touching the bottom of the cooker is strongly recommended.
Put the lid on and bring the cooker to the required pressure
(15 psi = 1atm over atmospheric pressure) slowly over a period of 15 minutes on a medium flame.
to:
Sipajte približno 1 inč (2.5cm) vode u ekspres lonac, nemojte sipati previše vode jer će te u protivnom time poremetiti sadržaj vode u teglama tako sto će voda ući u tegle.
Zatim stavite tegle u ekspres lonac
. Preporučujem vam da stavite podmetač na dno kako bi sprečili da tegle direkno dodiruju dno ekspres lonca.
Stavite poklopac i polako na tihoj vatri tokom 15 minuta dovedite ekspres lonac na odgovarajući pritisak
(15psi = 1 atm iznad atmosferskog pritiska).
Ako zagrejete ekspres lonac suviše brzo, tegle će se razbiti
.
Čim para počne da izazi iz ventila smanjite vatru tako da para koja izlazi iz ventila, izlazi malo i ravnomerno. Od ovog trenutka pa nadalje  kuvajte u ekspres loncu 45 minuta.
Changed lines 181-189 from:
If you heat up the cooker too fast this can cause the jars to crack.
As soon as the steam begins to escape the rocker or the vent at the top of the pressure cooker turn the heat back so only a very small, steady steam flow persists from the vent. From this point on, pressure cook for 45 minutes
.
Depending on the pressure cooker model the cooking procedure works a bit different so if you're not familiar with pressure cooking consult the instruction manual or someone who used pressure cookers before.
After 45 min take the cooker from the flame and let cool for at least 5 hours or even better over night.
If you are unable to find or buy a pressure cooker, you can also sterilize the jars using a big pot with a lid.
In this case steam the jars for 1.5 hours in a pot lid on. Use only approximately 1 inch of water at the bottom.
You might have to add some water to the pot during steaming due to evaporation.
If you never have used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the
[[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].
to:
U zavisnosti od modela ekspres lonca procedura ce se razlikovati, pa ako niste upoznati sa kuvanjem u ekspres loncu pre nego sto počnete da kuvate pročitajte uputstvo ili  pitajte nekog ko je već upotrebljavao ekspres lonac.
Posle 45 minuta skinite ekspres lonac sa vatre i ostavite ga da se ohladi najmanje 5 sati, ili još bolje preko noći
.

Ukoliko niste u mogućnosti da kupite ili da nabavite ekspres lonac, možete takođe sterilizovati tegle u običnom velikom loncu sa poklopcem.
U ovom slučaju kuvajte tegle 1.5 sat u poklopljenom loncu. Sipajte približno 1 inč vode.
Najverovatnije će te morati da dodajete vodu tokom kuvanja zbog isparavanja.

[[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].
Changed line 191 from:
!!Inoculation
to:
!!Inokulacija
Changed lines 194-195 from:
After the cooker is cold to the touch take the jars out and place them on a clean surface, have an alcohol lamp or a lighter and the spore syringe ready. Shake the spore syringe to break up the spore clumps.
to:
Pošto je lonac hladan na dodir izvadite tegle i stavite ih na čistu povrsinu. Takođe treba da imate alkoholnu lampu ili upaljač i spric sa sporama spremljen. Promućkajte špric sa sporama.
Changed lines 200-201 from:
To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
to:
Da bi mogli da promućkate neophodno je da u špricu postoji mali balončić vazduha. Ako ne postoji, onda usisajte približno 1cc sterilnog vazduha u špric tako sto će te staviti vrh igle na plamen (upaljača) i usisati vazduh.
Changed lines 206-207 from:
Loosen the foil from all of the jars so it can be lifted easily when you inoculate. 
to:
Olabavite foliju sa svih tegli kako bi za vreme inokulacije mogli lako da ih podignete.
Changed lines 212-213 from:
Take the cover from the needle and heat it over the flame until glowing red. Let cool for a few seconds
to:
Skinite štitnik sa igle pa zatim zagrejte iglu plamenom upaljača sve dok ne počne da se crveni. Dozvolite joj da se ohladi nekoliko sekundi.
Changed lines 218-219 from:
Take the upper foil layer off and put aside upside down. 
to:
Skinite gornji sloj folije i stavite ga sa strane prevrnutog.
Changed lines 224-225 from:
Pierce the foil at the edge of the jar with the needle app. 1in(2.5cm) deep and inject the spore suspension towards the inner jar surface. You should see a small drop running down the inner surface of the jar towards the bottom. Each jar is inoculated on 4 equally spaced points. You should use 1 - 1.5 ml of the spore suspension per jar so one 10ml syringe is sufficient for 6 -10 jars.
to:
Probodite foliju na ivici tegle iglom približno 2,5 cm duboko i ubrizgajte suspenziju sa sporama u tegle. Trebalo bi da vidite male kapljice kako se kreću ka dnu tegle. Svaka tegla  se inokulira na 4 jednako raspoređena mesta. Upotrebite 1- 1.5 ml suspenzije spora po tegli tako da špric od 10ml bude dovoljan za 6 - 10 tegli.
Changed lines 230-232 from:
Put the foil on again. Flame sterilize the needle again after inoculating 3 jars to prevent cross contamination just in case a jar wasn't properly sterilized.
When all of the jars are inoculated fold the foil edges up and press them firmly together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid. Write the inoculation date and the species/strain information on the foil with an all surface felt tip pen. If you touch something other with the needle during the inoculation procedure except the foil surface of the bottom foil layer immediately flame sterilize the tip again
.
to:
Ponovo vratite foliju. Plamenom sterilizujte iglu ponovo nakon što ste inokulirali 2 tegle da bi sprečili unakrsnu kontaminaciju u slučaju da tegle nisu pravilno sterilizovane.
Kada inokulirate sve tegle povrnite ivice ka gore i čvrsto ih stegnite tako da dobijete poklopac od aluminijumske folije. Zapišite datum inokulacije i vrstu koju gajite na foliji sa markerom. Ako dodirnete bilo šta drugo iglom tokom inokulacije osim unutrašnje površine folije, plamenom sterilizujte vrh igle ponovo.
Changed lines 238-243 from:
!!Incubation

The jars should be stored at
21-27°C (70-81°F), the warmer the better, but not exceeding 27°C. If you don't have these temperatures at home you can build an incubator to accommodate the jars. 

!!Incubator
to:
!!Inkubacija

Tegle bi trebalo da držite na temperaturi
21-27°C (70-80°F), što toplije to bolje ali nikako preko 27°C. Ako niste u mogućnosti da obezbedite ove temperature možete napraviti  inkubator.

!!Inkubator
Changed lines 246-253 from:
The inoculated jars develop fastest if they are stored at a temperature of 27°C (80°F) (According to Stamets the best incubation temperature for ''P. cubensis'' would be 86°F, but since the jars themselves are a few degrees warmer than the surroundings (mycelium emits heat when growing) 80°F is a good and safe incubator temperature)

You can build an effective incubator by using two plastic boxes of the same size and an aquarium heater. 
There are several types of aquarium heaters. When you´re buying a heater, make sure that it is of the "fully submersible" type. 
Attach the heater to the bottom of the first box and pour in as much
27°C warm water that the heater is completely submerged.
Adjust the heaters thermostat so that the heater just shuts itself off at 27°C .
Put some spacers on the bottom of the box, they carry the second box and prevent it from touching the heater. In the above picture 4 jars are used. You could also use bricks, stones or something similar.
to:
Inokulirane tegle će se najbrže razviti ako se čuvaju na temperaturi 27°C (80°F)
(Prema Stamets-u najbolja temperatura za inkubaciju P. cubensis  je 86°F, ali pošto su tegle nekoliko stepeni toplije od okruženja (micelija emituje toplotu kada raste) 80°F je dobra i sigurna temperatura  za inkubator)

Možete napraviti efikasan inkubator koriteći dve plastične kutije iste veličine i grejač za akvarijum.

Postoji nekoliko vrsta grejača za akvarijum. Kada kupujete grejač, obratite pažnju da bude model koji je "potpuno potopiv"
Prikačite grejač na dno prve kutije i sipajte na toplu  toplu vodu sve dok grejač ne bude potpuno potopljen.
Podesite termostat na grejaču tako da se sam isključi  kada dostigne
27°C.                         
Na dno dnu kutije stavite nešto na šta će da se naslanja druga kutija kako bi spečili kutiju da dodiruje grejač. Na  gornjoj slici  upotrebljene su 4 tegle. Možete koristiti cigle, kamenje i slično

Changed lines 261-262 from:
Put the second box in the one containing water.
After a few hours measure the temperature again and adjust the heater if necessary so the water temperature is
27°C. 
to:
Stavitie drugu kutiju u prvu koja sadrži vodu. Posle nekoliko sati izmerite ponovo temperaturu i podesite grejač ukoliko je potrebno kako bi temperatura vode bila 27°C.
Changed lines 267-269 from:
When the box is empty, it will float on the water.
The water level in the lower box should reach app. 2/3 the height of the box, supposing the upper box is in place loaded with jars and resting on the spacers
. 
to:
Kada je kutija prazna, plivaće u vodi. Nivo vode u donjoj kutiji treba da dostigne približno 2/3 visine kutije, kada da je gornja kutija na stavljena na donju i ukoliko je napunjena teglama.
Changed lines 273-274 from:
Now you can put the inoculated jars into the box.
to:
Sada možete staviti inokulirane tegle u kutiju.
Changed lines 279-280 from:
Cover the jars with a blanket to keep the heat escaping and to keep the jars dark. Note: the water level drops in some weeks by evaporation. Therefore you have to fill some fresh water in from time to time to keep the water level high enough. Never let evaporate so much water that the heater isn´t submerged in water anymore! You can get all of the above items at [[http://www.tkqlhce.com/7o70uoxuowBDJKGCLGBHLCECIL | www.ebay.com]] for a very good price.
to:
Prekrijte tegle pokrivačem da bi sprečili toplotu da izlazi i kako bi držali tegle u mraku.

Obratite pažnju
: za nekoliko nedelja nivo vode će opasti usled isparavanja. Zbog toga dospite svežu vodu s vremena na vreme kako bi održavali  nivo vode dovoljno visokim.
Nikada nemojte dozvoliti da voda toliko ispari tako da grejač nije potopljen u vodi
.
Changed lines 291-293 from:
Providing the jars are kept warm you should see the first sign of germination after 3-5 days as bright white specks. This is mycelium. If anything grows that is not white, for instance green, black or pink, then the jars are contaminated and their content must be discarded and your clean procedures need some improvement. After the jars are emptied and the jar is washed with detergent and hot water it can be used again. 
Check the [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]] for more information on possible contaminations in mushroom culture
. 
to:
Ako budete održavali tegle toplim videćete prve znake germitacije posle 3-5 dana kao svetle bele mrljice. Ovo je micelija. Ako bilo šta drugo raste a nije bele boje, na primer zelene, crne ili roze, onda su tegle kontaminirane i njihov sadržaj se mora odbaciti, i takođe će te morati popraviti vašu proceduru sterilizacije. Nakon što ispraznite tegle, operite ih sa deterdžentom i toplom vodom kako bi mogli ponovo da ih upotrebite. 
Pogledajte [[http://www
.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]] za više informacija o mogućim kontaminacijama u uzgajanju pečurki.
Changed lines 298-300 from:
Depending on the temperature and the viability of the spore syringe it takes 14-28 days for the mycelium to colonize the whole jar. Once colonized store the jars at normal room temperature, about 21°C (70°F) to initiate pinning.
Don't expose the jars to direct sunlight
. Indirect sunlight (= the natural light that lights up a room because at day time out) or a low wattage lamp (cool white fluorescent lamp is ideal, incandescent lamp is less suitable) for 4-12 hours a day is sufficient.
to:
U zavisnosti od temperature miceliji treba 14-25 dana da kolonizuje ceo supstrat. Nakon što je ovo postignuto čuvajte tegle na normalnoj sobnoj temperaturi, oko 21°C (70°F).
Nemojte izlagati tegle direktnoj sunčevoj svetlosti
, indiektna sunčeva svetlost ili lampa male voltaže nekoliko sati dnevno je dovoljno.
Changed lines 305-307 from:
Within 5-10 days (with certain mushroom strains it can however take up to 30 days) pinhead-size accumulations of mycelium should form. These so called pins represent the beginning of mushroom growth. In the following days also small mushrooms with brown heads become visible. When this is the case it's time to birth the cake into the fruiting container where the mushrooms can develop to maturity.
Some strains don't easily develop pins
. In this case put the colonized jar wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge over night and then proceed to [[http://www.fungifun.org/pf/fruiting.htm | fruiting]] next day, even if the cake doesn´t show pins yet. This cold shocking usually helps trigger pinning somewhat.
to:
Između 5-10 dana (kod određenih vrsta pečuraka, može da potraje i do 30 dana) glavice pečuraka bi trebalo da budu formirane. Ove takozvane glavice pretstavljaju početak rasta pečurki. U danima koji slede takođe će male pečurke sa braon kapicama postati vidljive. Kada do ovoga dođe vreme je da "porodite" kolače(supstrat sa micelijom) u plastičnom kontejneru gde će se pečurke razviti do zrelosti.
Neke vrste ne formiraju glavice brzo. U ovom slučaju zamotajte kolonizovanu teglu u palstičnu kesu i stavite u frižider preko noći i "porodite" sutra dan. Ovaj šok sa hladnoćom obično pomaže da počnu da se formiraju.
Changed line 314 from:
!!Fruiting
to:
!!Razvoj pečurki
Changed lines 317-320 from:
The fruiting of the cakes can be accomplished in any sort of container that can be loosely sealed and has at least one translucent side, preferably on the top. Suitable containers are a plastic bucket, rubbermaid container, terrarium, aquarium...
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down. Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease.

to:
Razvoj pečuraka može se postići u bilo kojoj vrsti kontejnera koji može biti  labavo zatvoren i koji ima bar jednu providnu stranu, po mogućstvu na vrhu. Pogodni kontejneri su plastične kofe, terarijum, akvarijum....
Stavite sloj od 2cm  pokvašenog
  perlita ili  nakvašen papirnati peškir na dno kontejnera i "porodite" kolače(supstrat) na ovaj sloj tako što će te  okrenuti čašu i dopustiti im da iskliznu iz nje.
Changed lines 321-322 from:
Pfpics:kuebel.jpg [[Pfpics:jar_slam.jpg | Pfpics:jar_slam_small.jpg]]
to:
Pfpics:kuebel.jpg
Changed lines 324-329 from:
If you have a bigger fruiting chamber (a bigger plastic container or a terrarium) you can of course put in more than one cake to fruit.
The distance between the cakes should be at least 2" (5cm) for the mushrooms have room to grow
. Put a sheet of translucent plastic over the opening of the fruiting container. Take this sheet off once a day and fan the air out with a piece of cardboard. If the bottom layer begins to dry out, spray it with some water to keep it moist since this layer provides moisture for the air to stay very humid. Don&acute;t spray the cakes directly.
Handle the cakes as little as possible but when you do it allways wash your hands thouroughly beforehand.
Over a course of the bext 7-14 days the cakes will begin to pin(if the haven't began to pin in the jars yet) and the small mushrooms will grow big in a matter of 2-5 days and as soon the caps begin to open they can be harvested.
This simultanious maturation of all mushrooms is called a flush.

to:
Ponekad  kolač ne može lako da isklizne iz caše sam.
U tom slučaju okrenite kolonizovanu čašu naopako u ruci i lagano udarite dlanom suprotne ruke šaku koja drži teglu. Ovo će omogućiti da kolač lako isklizne i tada ga  možete poroditi sa lakoćom
.
Changed lines 328-332 from:
[[Pfpics:gt1.jpg | Pfpics:gt1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt2.jpg | Pfpics:gt2_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt3.jpg | Pfpics:gt3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt4.jpg | Pfpics:gt4_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt5.jpg | Pfpics:gt5_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt6.jpg | Pfpics:gt6_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt7.jpg | Pfpics:gt7_klein
.jpg]]
to:
[[Pfpics:jar_slam.jpg | Pfpics:jar_slam_small.jpg]]
Changed lines 331-337 from:
After the mushrooms have grown big there are usually a few small, stunted mushrooms left over, they are called aborts. They can be recognized by their blackish heads and the fact that they stopped growing at some point. Still they are good to use unless they are rotten.
to:
Ukoliko imate veću komoru za razvoj pecurki(veći plastični kontejner ili terarijum) možete naravno staviti više od jednog kolača da se razvija. Razmak između kolača treba da bude  najmanje 2 inča(5cm) da bi pečurke imale više mesta za rast
Stavite poklopac providne plastike preko otvora kontejnera za razvoj
. Skidajte ovaj poklopac jednom dnevno i  provetravajte vazduh sa parčetom kartona. Ako sloj na dnu počne da se suši,  poprskajte ga vodom  da bi održali vlažnost, pošto ovaj sloj obezbeđuje vazduhu da ostane veoma vlažan. Nemojte direkno prskati na kolače.
Sa kolačima rukujte sto je manje moguće ali kada to radite uvek dobro operite ruke

U narednih 7-14 dana pečurke će početi da se razvijaju(ako to vec nisu počele u tegli) i male pečurke će porasti velike za 2-5 dana i čim kapa počne da se otvara možete ih ubrati.
Ovo istovremeno sazrevanje pečurki se zove flush.

Added lines 339-347:
[[Pfpics:gt1.jpg | Pfpics:gt1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt2.jpg | Pfpics:gt2_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt3.jpg | Pfpics:gt3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt4.jpg | Pfpics:gt4_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt5.jpg | Pfpics:gt5_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt6.jpg | Pfpics:gt6_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt7.jpg | Pfpics:gt7_klein.jpg]]

(:cellnr:)
Pošto su pečurke porasle obično se  tu nađu nekoliko veoma malih pečurki koje su prestale da rastu, one se zovu neuspele(aborts). Mogu se prepoznati po crnim glavicama .Ipak one se mogu iskoristiti ukoliko nisu trule.

(:cell width=350px:)
Changed lines 351-352 from:
It's crucial that you harvest all mushrooms, also the aborts, after the flush. This is most easily accomplished if you harvest the mushrooms off by gently twisting and tearing them off the cake with clean hands. Optionally you can [[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.
to:
Od velike je važnosti da oberete sve pečurke, takodje i zaostale, posle jednog flush-a. Pečurke će te najlakše obrati tako što će te ih  uvrnuti i otrgnuti sa kolača, naravno sa čistim rukama.
Alternativno možete
[[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html|potopiti(dunk)]] kolače posle svakog flush-a kako bi se povećala veličina i količina pečurki u narednom flush-u
Changed lines 356-358 from:
After approximately one week small mushrooms begin to form again and mature during the next days.
This cycle can repeat itself up to
4 times sometimes even more. After that the cake is exhausted it produces no more mushrooms and can be discarded. They can be also used to start [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | outdoor beds]].
to:
Posle približno jedne nedelje male pečurke će početi da se formiraju i da sazrevaju u nekoliko narednih dana.
Ovaj ciklus može da se ponovi
4 puta, ponekad i mnogo više. Posto je kolač iscrpljen on više neće proizvoditi pečurke i možete ga slobodno ukloniti. Takođe možete ga upotrebiti za uzgoj pečuraka napolju ([[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | outdoor beds]]).
Changed lines 363-364 from:
Sometimes green mold attacks the cakes even before they are completely exhausted. If this is the case remove and discard the contaminated cakes immediately to prevent the spreading of the contamination. 
to:
Ponekad  zeleni paraziti(green mold) napadnu kolače pre nego sto su potpuno iscrpljeni. Ukoliko vam se ovo desi sklonite i odbacite kontaminirane kolače kako bi sprečili širenje zaraze.
Changed lines 370-371 from:
3'^rd^' flush: 
to:
3-ći flush:
Changed lines 376-377 from:
4'^th^' and final  flush: 
to:
4-ti i konačni flush:
Added lines 1-386:
(:noautosections:)

====
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0 width=100% align=center:)
(:cell:)
Pfpics:shroom_zwerg1.gif

(:cell:)
%center%'+PF-Tek for Simple Minds+'
%center%for the cultivation of grain - loving mushrooms
%center%(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
%center%'-( updated: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

(:cell:)
Pfpics:shroom_zwerg.gif
(:tableend:)

====
The [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] was developed and first made public in 1992 by [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
This tek made the cultivation of mushrooms at home feasible for complete beginners utilizing commonly available materials.
The growing method I  describe here is based on the PF-tek but includes a few modifications that are time tested, and are, in my opinion, superior to the original PF-tek.
I strongly recommend you to read the original  [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], if you haven't done so already, to see a different approach to some steps.

The PF-Tek for Simple Minds uses ½ pint (~240ml) canning jars or drinking glasses and a growing substrate made of vermiculite, brown rice flour and water. The substrate is prepared, sterilized and inoculated with mushroom spores. After the substrate is fully colonized the fruiting takes place in a humid container.

!!On the subject of cleanliness

By growing mushrooms indoors on a nutritious substrate, you create conditions than not only favor the growth of the mushrooms, but also favor the growth of a large number of other organisms, many of them hazardous to the health.  To ensure that only the desired mushroom is grown, it is very important to assure cleanliness in all of the cultivation related procedures.

Before you work, wash your hands with (antibacterial) soap and warm water. Afterwards, wipe them dry and rub with Lysol or isopropyl-alcohol(iso-propanol).  Keep the rooms where you do the inoculation and fruiting dust free and clean and don't bring in dirty clothing or shoes.  Equally important is personal hygiene. Dirty hands, and even dirty hair, are a hotbed for all kinds of unwanted microorganisms which can destroy your cultivation project.

====
!!Materials

Most materials are easily avaliable at the local shops.

!!Vermiculite
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
[[http://www.schundler.com/techverm.htm | Vermiculite]] is made from a naturally occurring mineral - [[http://www.discovermyvillage.com/Articles/minerals/mica.html | mica]].
Crushed mica containing water is heated and expands to a volume several times greater than that of the untreated mica.
Vermiculite is able to hold several times its own weight in water and it gives the substrate an airy structure.
Vermiculite is available in several grades, the middle and the middle-fine grade are most suitable for cultivation purposes.

(:cell:) [[Pfpics:vermiculite.jpg|Pfpics:vermiculite_small.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Online sources for vermiculite and perlite

'''USA'''
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/vermiculite|vermiculite @ ebay]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/perlite|perlite @ ebay]] 
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+vermiculite+site:.com+-schundler|vermiculite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+perlite+site:.com+-schundler|perlite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=vermiculite|vermiculite @ Froogle]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=perlite|perlite @ Froogle]]

'''Canada'''
[[http://www.hydroponics.com/pricing/index.html | www.hydroponics.com]]

'''United Kingdom'''
[[http://www.gro-lite.co.uk/hydroponics.htm | www.gro-lite.co.uk]]

'''Australia'''
[[http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/mediums.htm#verm | users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/]]

Vermiculite is generally available in garden and hydrophonic stores, in some regions also in pet shops.

!!Brown rice flour (BRF)
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
BRF is available in health food shops either already ground, sometimes though there is only whole brown rice available.
In this case you can grind the rice either in the shop or, if this option is not available, grind your own using an electrical coffee grinder.
BRF is best kept cool and dry for prolonged periods of time, since it can easily become rancid because of the fat content of its husk.
If you are unable to find BRF you can also use whole wheat- or rye flour with similar results. Ground millet or ground millet based birdseed also work good.
[[http://www.google.com/search?q=%22%2Bbrown%2B%2Brice%2B%2Bflour%22%2B-cookies%2B-muffins%2B-bread|Google search for BRF]]
[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22brown%2Brice%2Bflour%22%2B-buttermilk%2B-chicken%2B-pasta%2B-syrup%2B-gravy%2B-lamb%2B-pantry%2B-beef%2B-shampoo%2B-glucan%2B-crackers | Froogle search for BRF]]

(:cell:)[[Pfpics:brownrice.jpg|Pfpics:brownrice_small.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Water 
Water used for the substrate preparation should have drinking water quality. Tap water is usually ok, but if you're not sure about it, better use bottled drinking water or mineral water.

!!Spore syringe
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
A plastic syringe with needle attached containing 10cc -12cc suspension of mushroom spores in water.
The color of the suspension varies from completely translucent to slightly violet depending on the quantity of the spores in the solution.
Spores are microscopic so as long as you see at least a few specs in more or less clear water the syringe should have plenty of spores.  Available through the internet, for instance
 
[[http://www.sporeworks.com/ | www.sporeworks.com]]
[[http://www.thehawkseye.com/ | www.thehawkseye.com]]
and many [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | more]].

(:cell:)
[[Pfpics:spritze.jpg | Pfpics:spritze_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Jars
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
The jars should have a content of around ½ pint (~240ml)
You can use either canning jars (Ball, Kerr...) or drinking glasses, the only requirement is that they are tapered and without shoulders, so you can slide the cake out of it in one piece once it's colonized. Bigger jars take much longer to colonize and are not recommended.
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23249 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the USA?]]
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23257 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the UK? ]]
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[[Pfpics:glaeser.jpg|Pfpics:glaeser_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

====
!!Substrate preparation
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For one ½ pint jar(~240 ml) you will need: 
=> 140 ml vermiculite
=>  40 ml brown rice flour
=>  some vermiculite to fill the jar to the top (app. 20 ml)
=> water

Note:
½pt(pint) = 1 cup = 236ml(milliliter) = 236cc(cubic centimeter) = 1/4 qt(quart)
The cups, pints and quarts are in the US liquid measuring system.
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Pfpics:zutaten.jpg

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Put the required amount of vermiculite for all the jars of one batch (for instance 6 jars: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ) in a bowl.

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Pfpics:mischen1.jpg

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Pour water slowly over the vermiculite while stirring with a spoon.
Be careful to only put that much water in as it can be absorbed by the vermiculite. Stir it well so all the vermiculite is uniformly soaked with water.

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Pfpics:verm_wasser.jpg Pfpics:vermiculite_wet.jpg

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When you tilt the bowl you should see just a little water starting coming from the vermiculite.
This is when the correct water content is achieved.
If there is too much water in the bowl, pour the wet vermiculite in a strainer and let the excess water drain for a minute. Then the vermiculite will be at the field capacity, which is perfect.

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Pfpics:wassergeh.jpg

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Now put the required amount of the BRF (for instance 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) into the wet vermiculite at once and mix it in with the spoon. The goal is to uniformly coat the wet vermiculite particles with a layer of BRF.

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Pfpics:vermiculite_brf.jpg Pfpics:vermiculite_brf_stirr.jpg[[<<]]Pfpics:vermiculite_brf_stirred.jpg

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Fill the mixture in jars ½ inch (1cm) under the top. it's very important to fill the substrate in the jars without tapping it down at all. It should stay very airy and loose to provide optimum conditions for the growth of mycelium.
Be careful not to leave any substrate on the upper edge of the jar. If you weren't careful enough and there are some substrate specks at the edge take a clean moist cloth and wipe the upper portion of the jar clean. Otherwise contaminants can start at those spots and work their way down into the jar.

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Pfpics:glas_leer.jpg Pfpics:glas_befuellen.jpg[[<<]]Pfpics:glas_voll.jpg

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Fill up the jar with dry vermiculite to the top.
This layer hinders airborne contaminants reaching the underlying substrate in case they manage to come in during the inoculation and incubation.

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Pfpics:jar_fill.jpg Pfpics:jar_filled.jpg

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Take a 5inch(12cm) wide stripe of aluminium foil and fold it in the middle.
Put the foil over the opening of the jar as shown in the pictures. If you're using jars with metal lids, you can poke 4 holes at the very edge of each lid with a small nail and hammer and screw the lid on. The holes should be slightly bigger than the diameter of the syringe needle.

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Pfpics:image034.jpg Pfpics:image036.jpg [[<<]]Pfpics:image038.jpg Pfpics:image040.jpg

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Fold the foil edges up and press them together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid.

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Pfpics:image042.jpg

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Then take a piece of foil measuring 5in x 5in in and put it over the first two layers (respectively the metal lid if you're using lids) leaving the edges of the foil reaching down, since it has to be lifted again during the inoculation.
So now you have 3 layers of foil over the opening. The top layer is lifted during the inoculation.

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Pfpics:image044.jpg Pfpics:image046.jpg Pfpics:image048.jpg
(:tableend:)

====
!!Sterilization
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Pour approximately 1inch (2.5cm) of water into the pressure cooker, don't put in too much water otherwise it will come into the jars and alter their water content.
Then stack the jars into the pressure cooker. The use of a rack to keep the jars from directly touching the bottom of the cooker is strongly recommended.
Put the lid on and bring the cooker to the required pressure (15 psi = 1atm over atmospheric pressure) slowly over a period of 15 minutes on a medium flame.

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Pfpics:6glas.jpg Pfpics:skt_leer.jpg
Pfpics:skt_offen.jpg Pfpics:skt_aussen.jpg 
(:tableend:)

If you heat up the cooker too fast this can cause the jars to crack.
As soon as the steam begins to escape the rocker or the vent at the top of the pressure cooker turn the heat back so only a very small, steady steam flow persists from the vent. From this point on, pressure cook for 45 minutes.
Depending on the pressure cooker model the cooking procedure works a bit different so if you're not familiar with pressure cooking consult the instruction manual or someone who used pressure cookers before.
After 45 min take the cooker from the flame and let cool for at least 5 hours or even better over night.
If you are unable to find or buy a pressure cooker, you can also sterilize the jars using a big pot with a lid.
In this case steam the jars for 1.5 hours in a pot lid on. Use only approximately 1 inch of water at the bottom.
You might have to add some water to the pot during steaming due to evaporation.
If you never have used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].

====
!!Inoculation
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After the cooker is cold to the touch take the jars out and place them on a clean surface, have an alcohol lamp or a lighter and the spore syringe ready. Shake the spore syringe to break up the spore clumps.
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Pfpics:glas_spritze.jpg Pfpics:schuett.jpg

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To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
(:cell width=350px:)
Pfpics:flamme.jpg

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Loosen the foil from all of the jars so it can be lifted easily when you inoculate.
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Pfpics:glas_foile_auf.jpg

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Take the cover from the needle and heat it over the flame until glowing red. Let cool for a few seconds

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Pfpics:flamme.jpg

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Take the upper foil layer off and put aside upside down.

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Pfpics:glas_ofolie.jpg

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Pierce the foil at the edge of the jar with the needle app. 1in(2.5cm) deep and inject the spore suspension towards the inner jar surface. You should see a small drop running down the inner surface of the jar towards the bottom. Each jar is inoculated on 4 equally spaced points. You should use 1 - 1.5 ml of the spore suspension per jar so one 10ml syringe is sufficient for 6 -10 jars.

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Pfpics:glas_impfen.jpg Pfpics:glas_beimpft.jpg

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Put the foil on again. Flame sterilize the needle again after inoculating 3 jars to prevent cross contamination just in case a jar wasn't properly sterilized.
When all of the jars are inoculated fold the foil edges up and press them firmly together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid. Write the inoculation date and the species/strain information on the foil with an all surface felt tip pen. If you touch something other with the needle during the inoculation procedure except the foil surface of the bottom foil layer immediately flame sterilize the tip again.

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Pfpics:image072.jpg Pfpics:image074.jpg
(:tableend:)

====
!!Incubation

The jars should be stored at 21-27°C (70-81°F), the warmer the better, but not exceeding 27°C. If you don't have these temperatures at home you can build an incubator to accommodate the jars.

!!Incubator

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The inoculated jars develop fastest if they are stored at a temperature of 27°C (80°F) (According to Stamets the best incubation temperature for ''P. cubensis'' would be 86°F, but since the jars themselves are a few degrees warmer than the surroundings (mycelium emits heat when growing) 80°F is a good and safe incubator temperature)

You can build an effective incubator by using two plastic boxes of the same size and an aquarium heater. 
There are several types of aquarium heaters. When you´re buying a heater, make sure that it is of the "fully submersible" type. 
Attach the heater to the bottom of the first box and pour in as much 27°C warm water that the heater is completely submerged.
Adjust the heaters thermostat so that the heater just shuts itself off at 27°C .
Put some spacers on the bottom of the box, they carry the second box and prevent it from touching the heater. In the above picture 4 jars are used. You could also use bricks, stones or something similar.

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Pfpics:inkubator1.jpg
[[Pfpics:waterlevel.gif | Pfpics:waterlevel_small.gif]]

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Put the second box in the one containing water.
After a few hours measure the temperature again and adjust the heater if necessary so the water temperature is 27°C.
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Pfpics:inkubator2.jpg

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When the box is empty, it will float on the water.
The water level in the lower box should reach app. 2/3 the height of the box, supposing the upper box is in place loaded with jars and resting on the spacers.

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[[Pfpics:waterlevel2.jpg | Pfpics:waterlevel2_small.jpg]]

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Now you can put the inoculated jars into the box.

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Pfpics:inkubator3.jpg

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Cover the jars with a blanket to keep the heat escaping and to keep the jars dark. Note: the water level drops in some weeks by evaporation. Therefore you have to fill some fresh water in from time to time to keep the water level high enough. Never let evaporate so much water that the heater isn´t submerged in water anymore! You can get all of the above items at [[http://www.tkqlhce.com/7o70uoxuowBDJKGCLGBHLCECIL | www.ebay.com]] for a very good price.

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Pfpics:inkubator4.jpg
(:tableend:)

====
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Providing the jars are kept warm you should see the first sign of germination after 3-5 days as bright white specks. This is mycelium. If anything grows that is not white, for instance green, black or pink, then the jars are contaminated and their content must be discarded and your clean procedures need some improvement. After the jars are emptied and the jar is washed with detergent and hot water it can be used again. 
Check the [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]] for more information on possible contaminations in mushroom culture.

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[[Pfpics:kol1.jpg | Pfpics:kol1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol2.jpg | Pfpics:kol2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol3.jpg | Pfpics:kol3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol4.jpg | Pfpics:kol4_klein.jpg]]

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Depending on the temperature and the viability of the spore syringe it takes 14-28 days for the mycelium to colonize the whole jar. Once colonized store the jars at normal room temperature, about 21°C (70°F) to initiate pinning.
Don't expose the jars to direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight (= the natural light that lights up a room because at day time out) or a low wattage lamp (cool white fluorescent lamp is ideal, incandescent lamp is less suitable) for 4-12 hours a day is sufficient.

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[[Pfpics:glas_bewachsen.jpg | Pfpics:glas_bewachsen_klein.jpg]]

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Within 5-10 days (with certain mushroom strains it can however take up to 30 days) pinhead-size accumulations of mycelium should form. These so called pins represent the beginning of mushroom growth. In the following days also small mushrooms with brown heads become visible. When this is the case it's time to birth the cake into the fruiting container where the mushrooms can develop to maturity.
Some strains don't easily develop pins. In this case put the colonized jar wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge over night and then proceed to [[http://www.fungifun.org/pf/fruiting.htm | fruiting]] next day, even if the cake doesn´t show pins yet. This cold shocking usually helps trigger pinning somewhat.

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[[Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_1.jpg | Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_1_klein.jpg ]]
[[Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_2.jpg | Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_2_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

====
!!Fruiting
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The fruiting of the cakes can be accomplished in any sort of container that can be loosely sealed and has at least one translucent side, preferably on the top. Suitable containers are a plastic bucket, rubbermaid container, terrarium, aquarium...
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down. Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease.

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Pfpics:kuebel.jpg [[Pfpics:jar_slam.jpg | Pfpics:jar_slam_small.jpg]]

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If you have a bigger fruiting chamber (a bigger plastic container or a terrarium) you can of course put in more than one cake to fruit.
The distance between the cakes should be at least 2" (5cm) for the mushrooms have room to grow. Put a sheet of translucent plastic over the opening of the fruiting container. Take this sheet off once a day and fan the air out with a piece of cardboard. If the bottom layer begins to dry out, spray it with some water to keep it moist since this layer provides moisture for the air to stay very humid. Don&acute;t spray the cakes directly.
Handle the cakes as little as possible but when you do it allways wash your hands thouroughly beforehand.
Over a course of the bext 7-14 days the cakes will begin to pin(if the haven't began to pin in the jars yet) and the small mushrooms will grow big in a matter of 2-5 days and as soon the caps begin to open they can be harvested.
This simultanious maturation of all mushrooms is called a flush.

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[[Pfpics:gt1.jpg | Pfpics:gt1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt2.jpg | Pfpics:gt2_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt3.jpg | Pfpics:gt3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt4.jpg | Pfpics:gt4_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt5.jpg | Pfpics:gt5_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt6.jpg | Pfpics:gt6_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt7.jpg | Pfpics:gt7_klein.jpg]]

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After the mushrooms have grown big there are usually a few small, stunted mushrooms left over, they are called aborts. They can be recognized by their blackish heads and the fact that they stopped growing at some point. Still they are good to use unless they are rotten.
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[[Pfpics:aborts1_big.jpg | Pfpics:aborts1.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

It's crucial that you harvest all mushrooms, also the aborts, after the flush. This is most easily accomplished if you harvest the mushrooms off by gently twisting and tearing them off the cake with clean hands. Optionally you can [[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.

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After approximately one week small mushrooms begin to form again and mature during the next days.
This cycle can repeat itself up to 4 times sometimes even more. After that the cake is exhausted it produces no more mushrooms and can be discarded. They can be also used to start [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | outdoor beds]].

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[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_0.jpg | Pfpics:cake_2flush_0_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_2flush_1.jpg | Pfpics:cake_2flush_1_klein.jpg]]

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Sometimes green mold attacks the cakes even before they are completely exhausted. If this is the case remove and discard the contaminated cakes immediately to prevent the spreading of the contamination.

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[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_2.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_2flush_3.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_3_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_4.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_4_klein.jpg]]

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3'^rd^' flush:

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[[Pfpics:cake_3flush_1.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_2.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_3.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_4.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_4_klein.jpg]]

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4'^th^' and final  flush:

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[[Pfpics:cake_4flush.jpg|Pfpics:cake_4flush_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)
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Page last modified on April 07, 2008, at 11:14 AM