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(:youtube 3iFi3YrIo7o:)
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>>yellowbox<<

%center%'+Naredil sem video priprave substrata in cepitve
:+'
%center%%newwin%http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iFi3YrIo7o

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(:youtube 3iFi3YrIo7o:)
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%define=yellowbox box bgcolor=#fff7cb border='1px solid #ffad80'%
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%center%'+Naredil sem video priprave substrata in cepitve:+'
%center%%newwin%http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iFi3YrIo7o

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Pomembno je, da po vsakem valu poberemo vse gobice, tudi tise, ki so zakrnele. Nabiramo jih tako, da vsako gobico primemo s čistimi rokami, nežno zavrtimo in odtrgamo od podlage.
to:
Pomembno je, da po vsakem valu poberemo vse gobice, tudi tise, ki so zakrnele. Nabiramo jih tako, da vsako gobico primemo s čistimi rokami, nežno zavrtimo in odtrgamo od podlage. Opcionalno lahko potopite )[[http://www.thenook.org/archives/dunktek.htm | dunk]]) cakes po vsakem valu.
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in še [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | mnogih ]] drugih.
to:
in še [[http://www.shroomery.org/sponsors.php | mnogih ]] drugih.
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If you never used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].
to:
If you never used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[English/Pressure-Cooker-Use | correct pressure cooker use]].
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[[English/Contact | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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(:cell align=center:)
!PF-Tek za telebane
preprosta metoda za vzgojo gobic
(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
'-( updated: {$LastModified} )-'
'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-'
[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

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%center%'+PF-Tek za telebane+'
%center%preprosta metoda za vzgojo gobic
%center%(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
%center%'-( updated: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-'
%center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

(:cell:)
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====
(:title PF-Tek za telebane:)
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====
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%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-'
%center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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Metodo [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] je prvič objavil [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-')leta 1992. Ta metoda omogoča gojenje gob tudi popolnim začetnikom z uporabo splošno dostopnih materialov.
to:
Metodo [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] je prvič objavil  [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-') leta 1992. Ta metoda omogoča gojenje gob tudi popolnim začetnikom z uporabo splošno dostopnih materialov.
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!!Vermikulit
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!!!Vermikulit
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!!Kje lahko najdemo vermikulit in perlit
to:
!!!Kje lahko najdemo vermikulit in perlit
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!!Moka iz rjavega riža (BRF - brown rice flour)
to:
!!!Moka iz rjavega riža (BRF - brown rice flour)
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!!Voda
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!!!Voda
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!!Injekcija s trosi
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!!!Injekcija s trosi
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Injekcije s trosi lahko dobite naprimer v
to:
Injekcije s trosi lahko dobite naprimer pri
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!!Kozarci
to:
!!!Kozarci
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====
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(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0 width=100% align=center:)
(:cell:)
[[#a1|Materiali]]
(:cell:)
[[#a2|Substrat]]
(:cell:)
[[#a3|Sterilizacija]]
(:cell:)
[[#a4|Inokulacija]]
(:cell:)
[[#a5|Inkubacija]]
(:cell:)
[[#a6|Obroditev]]
(:tableend:)

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The jars should be stored at 21-27°C (70-81°F), the warmer the better, but not exceeding 27°C. If you don't have these temperatures at home you can build an incubator to accommodate the jars. 
to:
Kozarci naj bodo shranjeni na temperaturi 21-27°C, toplejše je boljše, toda temperatura ne sme preseči 27°C. V kolikor je v prostoru prehladno, si lahko postavite inkubator.
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The inoculated jars develop fastest if they are stored at a temperature of 27°C (80°F) (According to Stamets the best incubation temperature for ''P. cubensis'' would be 86°F, but since the jars themselves are a few degrees warmer than the surroundings (mycelium emits heat when growing) 80°F is a good and safe incubator temperature)

You can build an effective incubator by using two plastic boxes of the same size and an aquarium heater. 
There are several types of aquarium heaters. When you´re buying a heater, make sure that it is of the "fully submersible" type. 
Attach the heater to the bottom of the first box and pour
in as much 27°C warm water that the heater is completely submerged.
Adjust the heaters thermostat so that the heater just shuts itself off at 27°C .
Put some spacers on the bottom of the box, they carry the second box and prevent it from touching the heater. In the above picture 4 jars are used. You could also use bricks, stones or something similar.

to:
Micelij v inokuliranih kozarcih doseže najhitrejšo rast pri temperaturi 27°C.
(V Stametsovi knjigi The Mushroom Cultivator je navedena optimalna temperatura za P. cubensis 30°C, ampak ker so kozarci vedno toplejši kot okolica (micelij med rastjo oddaja toploto), je temperatura 27°C bolj primerna in varnejša.)

Za preprost in učinkovit inkubator lahko uporabimo dve plastični posodi enake velikosti in akvarijski grelec.
Ker obstaja več tipov akvarijskih grelcev, se pred nakupom prepričajte, da je se sme vaš grelec v celoti potopiti v vodo.
Grelec pritrdite na dno prve posode in nalijte vanjo toliko vode, da je grelec v celoti potopljen.
Termostat nastavite tako, da se grelec izključi pri 27°C.
Na dno postavite distančnike, ki bodo nosili drugo škatlo
in preprečevali, da bi se dotikala grelca. Na zgornji sliki so uporabljeni kar 4 kozarci, lahko pa bi uporabili tudi opeke, kamne ali kaj podobnega
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Put the second box in the one containing water.
After a few hours measure the temperature again and adjust the heater if necessary so the water temperature is
27°C. 
to:
Drugo posodo položite v prvo in po nekaj urah ponovno izmerite temperaturo ter nastavite termostat grelca tako, da bo temperatura vode 27°C.
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When the box is empty, it will float on the water.
The water level in the lower box should reach app. 2/3 the height of the box, supposing the upper box is in place loaded with jars and resting on the spacers
. 
to:
Druga posoda bo plavala na gladini vode, dokler je ne napolnimo s kozarci.
Kadar bo posoda polna kozarcev in bo položena na distančnike, naj nivo vode dosega okoli 2/3 višine spodnje posode
.
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Now you can put the inoculated jars into the box.
to:
Za tem zložimo inokulirane kozarce v posodo.
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Cover the jars with a blanket to keep the heat escaping and to keep the jars dark. Note: the water level drops in some weeks by evaporation. Therefore you have to fill some fresh water in from time to time to keep the water level high enough. Never let evaporate so much water that the heater isn´t submerged in water anymore! You can get all of the above items at [[http://www.tkqlhce.com/7o70uoxuowBDJKGCLGBHLCECIL | www.ebay.com]] for a very good price.
to:
Pokrijemo jih z zloženo rjuho ali podobno, tako da ostanejo na toplem in temnem.
Pozor: nivo vode se po nekaj tednih izhlapevanja zniža, zato je treba vodo občasno dolivati.
Nikoli ne pustite, da se nivo vode tako zniža, da grelec ni več v celoti potopljen
!
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Providing the jars are kept warm you should see the first sign of germination after 3-5 days as bright white specks. This is mycelium. If anything grows that is not white, for instance green, black or pink, then the jars are contaminated and their content must be discarded and your clean procedures need some improvement. After the jars are emptied and the jar is washed with detergent and hot water it can be used again. 
Check the [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]] for more information on possible contaminations in mushroom culture
.
to:
Če so kozarci postavljeni na toplo, naj bi bilo videti prva znamenja klitja trosov po 3-5 dnevih, kot svetlo bele madeže. To je micelij. Če zrase karkoli, kar ni belo, ampak na primer zeleno, črno ali roza, potem so kozarci okuženi, čistost vaših postopkov pa potrebuje izboljšavo. Vsebino takih kozarcev je treba zavreči, kozarce pa operemo z detergentom in vročo vodo ter ponovno uporabimo.
Poglejte [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]] za informacije glede kontaminacij pri gojenju  gob
.
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Depending on the temperature and the viability of the spore syringe it takes 14-28 days for the mycelium to colonize the whole jar. Once colonized store the jars at normal room temperature, about 21°C (70°F) to initiate pinning.
Don't expose the jars to direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight (= the natural light that lights up a room because at day time out) or a low wattage lamp (cool white fluorescent lamp is ideal, incandescent lamp is less suitable) for 4-12 hours a day is sufficient.

to:
Odvisno od temperature, traja popolno preraščanje substrata od 14 do 28 dni. Po tem shranite kozarce na normalni sobni temperaturi (okoli 21°C).
Kozarci ne smejo biti izpostavljeni direktni sončni svetlobi. Za začetek rasti zadošča že nekaj ur indirektne osvetlitve, za kar lahko uporabite tudi šibko žarnico
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Within 5-10 days (with certain mushroom strains it can however take up to 30 days) pinhead-size accumulations of mycelium should form. These so called pins represent the beginning of mushroom growth. In the following days also small mushrooms with brown heads become visible. When this is the case it's time to birth the cake into the fruiting container where the mushrooms can develop to maturity.
Some strains don't easily develop pins. In this case put the colonized jar wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge over night and then proceed to [[http://www
.fungifun.org/pf/fruiting.htm | fruiting]] next day, even if the cake doesn´t show pins yet. This cold shocking usually helps trigger pinning somewhat.
to:
V 5 do 10 dneh (pri nekaterih sortah lahko traja tudi do 30 dni) bi se morali formirati skupki micelija v velikost bucikine glavice. To so tako imenovani pini in predstavljajo zasnovo za rast gob. V naslednjih dneh pa bodo že vidne tudi majhne gobice z rjavimi glavicami. Zdaj je čas za postavitev tortice v inkubator, kjer se bodo gobice lahko razvijale naprej do končne zrelosti.
Nekatere sorte ne razvijejo pinov tako zlahka. V tem primeru zavijte kozarce v plasično vrečko, jo čez noč postavite v hladilnik in nadaljujte naslednji dan, tudi če na tortici ni pinov
. Takšna zmrazitev ponavadi pomaga pri formiranju pinov.
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!!Fruiting
to:
!!Obroditev
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The fruiting of the cakes can be accomplished in any sort of container that can be loosely sealed and has at least one translucent side, preferably on the top. Suitable containers are a plastic bucket, rubbermaid container, terrarium, aquarium...
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www
.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down.
to:
Gobice lahko uspešno vzgojimo v katerikoli posodi, ki se jo da zapreti in ima vsaj eno prosojno stranico. Uporabimo lahko plastično vedro, terarij ali akvarij.
Na dno posode nasujte 1 cm debelo plast navlaženega perlita ali navlaženo papirnato brisačo
. Kozarec obrnite, da tortica z zgornjo stranjo počasi spolzi na pripravljeno plast.
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Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand
. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease.
to:
Če tortica ne zdrsne iz kozarca sama od sebe, ga obrnite in z dlanjo narahlo udarite po dnu, tako da bo tortica zdrsnila proti pokrovčku.
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If you have a bigger fruiting chamber (a bigger plastic container or a terrarium) you can of course put in more than one cake to fruit.
The distance between the cakes should be at least 2" (5cm) for the mushrooms have room to grow. Put a sheet of translucent plastic over the opening of the fruiting container. Take this sheet off once a day and fan the air out with a piece of cardboard. If the bottom layer begins to dry out
, spray it with some water to keep it moist since this layer provides moisture for the air to stay very humid. Don&acute;t spray the cakes directly.
Handle the cakes as little as possible but when you do it allways wash your hands thouroughly beforehand
.
Over a course of the bext 7-14 days the cakes will begin to pin(if the haven't began to pin in the jars yet) and the small mushrooms will grow big in a matter of 2-5 days and as soon the caps begin to open they can be harvested.
This simultanious maturation of all mushrooms is called a flush.

to:
Če je posoda dovolj velika lahko v njo postavite več tortic. Razdalja med njimi naj bo vsah 5 cm, da bodo gobice imele dovolj prostora za rast. Posodo prekrijemo s prosojno plastično prevleko, ki jo enkrat na dan dvignemo in posodo prezračimo. Zrak izpihamo s pahljačo iz kartona. Dno mora biti vedno mokro, ker zagotavlja ustrezno vlažnost v posodi. Paziti morate, da z vodo ne škropite neposredno po torticah.
Preden se tortic dotikamo, si je potrebno temeljito umiti roke, še bolje pa je
, da se dotikanju izogibamo, kolikor se le da.

Majhne gobice odrastejo v nekaj dnevih in ko se klobučki začnejo odpirati so primerne za žetev.
Vse gobice dozorijo istočasno, zato pravimo, da rastejo v valovih
.
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After the mushrooms have grown big there are usually a few small, stunted mushrooms left over, they are called aborts. They can be recognized by their blackish heads and the fact that they stopped growing at some point. Still they are good to use unless they are rotten.
to:
Pri vsakem valu ostane tudi nekaj majhnih zakrnelih gobic, ki nikoli ne dozorijo. Prepoznamo jih po temnih glavicah in po tem, da se je njihova rast v nekem trenutku ustavila. Če niso gnile, pa so vseeno uporabne.
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It's crucial that you harvest all mushrooms, also the aborts, after the flush. This is most easily accomplished if you harvest the mushrooms off by gently twisting and tearing them off the cake with clean hands. Optionally you can [[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.
to:
Pomembno je, da po vsakem valu poberemo vse gobice, tudi tise, ki so zakrnele. Nabiramo jih tako, da vsako gobico primemo s čistimi rokami, nežno zavrtimo in odtrgamo od podlage.
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After approximately one week small mushrooms begin to form again and mature during the next days.
This cycle can repeat itself up to
4 times sometimes even more. After that the cake is exhausted it produces no more mushrooms and can be discarded. They can be also used to start [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | outdoor beds]].
to:
Po približno enem tedno se ponovno pričnejo porajati majhne gobice, ki nato v naslednjih dneh dozorijo.
Ta cikel se ponovi večkrat. Pričakujemo lahko 4 ali celo več valov. Po tem se tortica izčrpa in ne obrodi več.
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Sometimes green mold attacks the cakes even before they are completely exhausted. If this is the case remove and discard the contaminated cakes immediately to prevent the spreading of the contamination.
to:
Včasih se zgodi, da tortico še pred koncem napadejo zelene plesni. Take tortice je treba takoj odstraniti, da preprečimo širjenje okužbe
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3'^rd^' flush:
to:
3. val:
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4'^th^' and final  flush: 
to:
4. in zadnji val:
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!!Jars
to:
!!Kozarci
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The jars should have a content of around ½ pint (~240ml)
You can use either canning jars (Ball, Kerr...) or drinking glasses
, the only requirement is that they are tapered and without shoulders, so you can slide the cake out of it in one piece once it's colonized. Bigger jars take much longer to colonize and are not recommended.
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23249 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the USA?]]
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23257 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the UK? ]]

to:
Kozarci naj bodo veliki približno 250 ml.
Uporabite lahko kozarce za vlaganje ali navadne kozarce, le da morajo biti brez roba in vboklin
, da lahko tortica, ko bo popolnoma preraščena z micelijem, spolzi ven v enem kosu.
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!!Substrate preparation
to:
!!Priprava substrata
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For one ½ pint jar(~240 ml) you will need: 
=> 140 ml vermiculite
=>  40 ml brown rice flour
=>  some vermiculite to fill the jar to the top (app. 20 ml)
=> water

Note:
½pt(pint) = 1 cup = 236ml(milliliter) = 236cc(cubic centimeter) = 1/4 qt(quart)
The cups, pints and quarts are in the US liquid measuring system
.
to:
Za en kozarec boste potrebovali:

=> 140
ml vermikulita
=> 40 ml moke iz rjavega riža (BRF)
=> nekaj vermikulita, da boste napolnili kozarce do vrha (približno 20 ml)
=> vodo
.
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Put the required amount of vermiculite for all the jars of one batch (for instance 6 jars: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ) in a bowl.
to:
V večjo posodo vsujte pripravljeno količino vermikulita za vse kozarce (na primer 6 kozarcev: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ).
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Pour water slowly over the vermiculite while stirring with a spoon.
Be careful to only put that much water in as it can be absorbed by the vermiculite. Stir it well so all the vermiculite is uniformly soaked with water
.
to:
Vermikulit počasi prelijte z vodo in mešajte z žlico.
Pomembno je, da dodane vode ni več, kot jo lahko vermikulit vpije
.
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When you tilt the bowl you should see just a little water starting coming from the vermiculite. 
This is when the correct water content is achieved.
If there is too much water in the bowl, pour the wet vermiculite in a strainer and let the excess water drain for a minute. Then the vermiculite will be at the field capacity, which is perfect.

to:
Tekočine je ravno dovolj, če ob nagibu posode iz mase priteče malo vode.
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Now put the required amount of the BRF (for instance 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) into the wet vermiculite at once and mix it in with the spoon. The goal is to uniformly coat the wet vermiculite particles with a layer of BRF.
to:
Mokremu vermikulitu primešajte potrebno količino BRF-ja (npr. 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) Mokri delci vermikulita naj bodo prevlečeni s plastjo BRF-ja
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Fill the mixture in jars ½ inch (1cm) under the top. it's very important to fill the substrate in the jars without tapping it down at all. It should stay very airy and loose to provide optimum conditions for the growth of mycelium.
Be careful not to leave any substrate on the upper edge of the jar. If you weren't careful enough and there are some substrate specks at the edge take a clean moist cloth and wipe the upper portion of the jar clean. Otherwise contaminants can start at those spots and work their way down into the jar
. 
to:
Z mešanico napolnite kozarce in na vrhu pustite približno 1 cm prostora. Zelo pomembno je, da substrata med polnjenjem ne stisnete preveč. Ostati mora zračen in rahel, da bo zagotavljal optimalne pogoje za rast micelija.
Paziti je treba, da s substratom ne umažemo roba kozarca
. Če pri polnjenju niste bili dovolj previdni in so na robu ostali madeži, vzemite čisto in vlažno krpo, ter obrišite zgornji del kozarca. V nasprotnem primeru se lahko zgodi, da se na teh madežih zaredijo bakterije ali plesni in se prebijejo v kozarec.
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Fill up the jar with dry vermiculite to the top.
This layer hinders airborne contaminants reaching the underlying substrate
in case they manage to come in during the inoculation and incubation.
to:
Preostanek kozarca napolnite s suhim vermikulitom.
Ta plast preprečuje, da bi neželjeni organizmi, ki se vedno nahajajo v zraku
in zlahka pridejo v kozarec, dosegli substrat.
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Take a 5inch(12cm) wide stripe of aluminium foil and fold it in the middle.
Put the foil over the opening of the jar as shown in the pictures. If you're using jars with metal lids, you can poke 4 holes at the very edge of each lid with a small nail and hammer and screw the lid on. The holes should be slightly bigger than the diameter of the syringe needle
.
to:
Vzamemo približno 12 cm širok trak aluminijaste folije in ga prepognemo po sredini.
Folijo poveznemo čez kozarec, tako kot je prikazano na sliki.
Če uporabljate kozarce s kovinskimi pokrovčki, napravite z žebljem in kladivom 4 luknjice na samem robu vsakega pokrova in nato privijte pokrov na kozarec. Luknjice naj bodo malo večje, kot je premer injekcijske igle
.
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Fold the foil edges up and press them together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid. 
to:
Robove folije spodvijte in jih pritisnite ob kozarec, tako da nastane preprost aluminijast pokrovček.
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Then take a piece of foil measuring 5in x 5in in and put it over the first two layers (respectively the metal lid if you're using lids) leaving the edges of the foil reaching down, since it has to be lifted again during the inoculation.
So now you have 3 layers of foil over the opening
. The top layer is lifted during the inoculation.
to:
Nato vzemite še en kos folije (12 x 12 cm) in ga položite čez prvi dve plasti (ali pa kovinski pokrovček). Pri tem naj robovi visijo čez rob kozarca, ker jih bomo kasneje med inokulacijo privzdignili.
Torej: na kozarcu so sedaj 3 plasti folije in samo zgornja se bo privzdignila med inokulacijo
.
Changed line 169 from:
!!Sterilization
to:
!!Sterilizacija
Changed lines 172-175 from:
Pour approximately 1inch (2.5cm) of water into the pressure cooker, don't put in too much water otherwise it will come into the jars and alter their water content.
Then stack the jars into the pressure cooker. The use of a rack to keep the jars from directly touching the bottom of the cooker is strongly recommended.
Put the lid on and bring the cooker to the required pressure (15 psi = 1atm over atmospheric pressure) slowly over a period of 15 minutes on a medium flame
.
to:
V ekonom lonec nalijte za dobra 2 cm vode. Vode ne sme biti preveč, ker bo sicer med kuhanjem vdrla v kozarce in jih preveč navlažila.
Kozarce zložite v lonec. Zelo priporočljivo je, da so kozarci podloženi tako, da se ne direktno dotikajo dna lonca.
Lonec zaprite in počasi na srednjem ognju segrevajte tako, da v približno 15 minutah dosežete maksimalni tlak (15 psi = 1 atm).
Pri prehitrem segrevanju lahko kozarci počijo.
Ko začne iz ventila uhajati para, zmanjšajte ogenj, tako da para enakomerno in minimalno izhaja iz lonca. Takšno kuhanje naj traja 45 minut
.
Changed lines 183-191 from:
If you heat up the cooker too fast this can cause the jars to crack.
As soon as the steam begins to escape the rocker or the vent at the top of the pressure cooker turn the heat back so only a very small, steady steam flow persists from the vent. From this point on
, pressure cook for 45 minutes.
Depending on the pressure cooker model the cooking procedure works a bit different so if you're not familiar with pressure cooking consult the instruction manual or someone who used pressure cookers before.
After 45 min take the cooker from the flame and let cool for at least 5 hours or even better over night.
If you are unable to find or buy a pressure cooker, you can also sterilize the jars using a big pot with a lid.
In this case steam the jars for 1.5 hours in a pot lid on. Use only approximately 1 inch of water at the bottom.
You might have to add some water to the pot during steaming due to evaporation.
If you never have
used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].
to:
Ker obstajajo različni ekonom lonci, so lahko različni tudi postopki kuhanja. V primeru, da takega lonca še niste uporabljali preberite njegova navodila za uporabo ali pa se posvetujte z nekom, ki ima več izkušenj.
Po 45 minutah odstavite lonec in ga pustite, da se hladi vsaj 5 ur, še bolje pa kar čez noč.
V primeru
, da nimate primernega lonca, lahko uporabite tudi navadno posodo s pokrovom.
V tem primeru naj se kozarci parijo v pokritem loncu kake 1.5 ure. Na dno lonca nalijte približno 2 cm vode in jo po potrebi dodajajte zaradi izparevanja.
If you never
used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].
Changed line 190 from:
!!Inoculation
to:
!!Inokulacija
Changed lines 193-194 from:
After the cooker is cold to the touch take the jars out and place them on a clean surface, have an alcohol lamp or a lighter and the spore syringe ready. Shake the spore syringe to break up the spore clumps.
to:
Ko se lonec toliko ohladi, da se ga lahko dotaknete, vzemite kozarce ven in jih zložite na čisto površino. Pripravite alkoholni gorilnik ali vžigalnik in injekcijo s trosi. Injekcijo pretresite, da se skupki trosov razbijejo in enakomerno porazdelijo po notranjosti.
Changed line 199 from:
To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
to:
Injekcijo je lažje pretresti, če vsebuje majhen mehurček zraka. Če ga ni, postavite konico igle v plamen in počasi vsrkajte približno 1cc sterilnega zraka.
Changed lines 205-206 from:
Loosen the foil from all of the jars so it can be lifted easily when you inoculate. 
to:
Zrahljajte zgornjo folijo na vseh kozarcih, tako da jo boste med inokulacijo z lahkoto dvignili.
Changed lines 211-212 from:
Take the cover from the needle and heat it over the flame until glowing red. Let cool for a few seconds
to:
Snemite pokrovček z igle in jo razžarite nad plamenom dokler ne postane rdeče barve. Poačkajte nekaj sekund, da se ohladi.
Changed lines 217-218 from:
Take the upper foil layer off and put aside upside down.
to:
Snemite zgornjo plast folije in jo odložite na stran, obrnjeno na zgoraj navzdol.
Changed lines 223-224 from:
Pierce the foil at the edge of the jar with the needle app. 1in(2.5cm) deep and inject the spore suspension towards the inner jar surface. You should see a small drop running down the inner surface of the jar towards the bottom. Each jar is inoculated on 4 equally spaced points. You should use 1 - 1.5 ml of the spore suspension per jar so one 10ml syringe is sufficient for 6 -10 jars.
to:
Z injekcijsko iglo preluknjajte folijo na robu kozarca in jo potisnite  okoli 2.5 cm globoko in vbrizgajte trose proti notranji strani kozarca, tako da je videti  kako po steklu spolzi majhna kapljica suspenzije proti dnu kozarca. Vsak kozarec se inokulira skozi 4 enako oddaljene točke. Na kozarec se porabi okoli 1-1.5 ml suspenzije trosov, tako da 10 ml injekcija zadostuje za 6 do 10 kozarcev.
Changed lines 229-231 from:
Put the foil on again. Flame sterilize the needle again after inoculating 3 jars to prevent cross contamination just in case a jar wasn't properly sterilized.
When all of the jars are inoculated fold the foil edges up and press them firmly together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid
. Write the inoculation date and the species/strain information on the foil with an all surface felt tip pen. If you touch something other with the needle during the inoculation procedure except the foil surface of the bottom foil layer immediately flame sterilize the tip again.
to:
Folijo poveznite nazaj na kozarec. Po vsakih dveh kozarcih ponovno sterilizirajte iglo nad plamenom, da preprečite morebiten prenos kontaminantov med kozarci, za primer, da niso bili vsi popolnoma sterilizirani.
Na koncu spodvijte robove folije in jih pritisnite ob kozarec. Na pokrovček si zabeležite datum inokulacije in podatke o vrsti ter sorti gobic
. Če se med proceduro z iglo dotaknete česarkoli, razen notranjosti kozarca, takoj spet sterilizirajte konico igle nad plamenom.
Changed lines 237-238 from:
!!Incubation
to:
!!Inkubacija
Changed lines 9-10 from:
%center%'+PF-Tek for Simple Minds+'
%center%for the cultivation of grain - loving mushrooms
to:
%center%'+PF-Tek za telebane+'
%center%preprosta metoda za vzgojo gobic
Changed lines 20-32 from:
The [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] was developed and first made public in 1992 by [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
This tek made the cultivation of mushrooms at home feasible for complete beginners utilizing commonly available materials.
The growing method I  describe here is based on the PF-tek but includes a few modifications that are time tested, and are, in my opinion, superior to the original PF-tek.
I strongly recommend you to read the original  [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], if you haven't done so already, to see a different approach to some steps.

The PF-Tek for Simple Minds uses ½ pint (~240ml) canning jars or drinking glasses and a growing substrate made of vermiculite, brown rice flour and water
. The substrate is prepared, sterilized and inoculated with mushroom spores. After the substrate is fully colonized the fruiting takes place in a humid container.

!!On the subject of cleanliness

By growing mushrooms indoors on a nutritious substrate, you create conditions than not only favor the growth of the mushrooms, but also favor the growth of a large number of other organisms, many of them hazardous to the health.  To ensure that only the desired mushroom is grown, it is very important to assure cleanliness in all of the cultivation related procedures.

Before you work, wash your hands with (antibacterial) soap and warm water
. Afterwards, wipe them dry and rub with Lysol or isopropyl-alcohol(iso-propanol).  Keep the rooms where you do the inoculation and fruiting dust free and clean and don't bring in dirty clothing or shoes.  Equally important is personal hygiene. Dirty hands, and even dirty hair, are a hotbed for all kinds of unwanted microorganisms which can destroy your cultivation project.
to:
Metodo [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] je prvič objavil [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-')leta 1992. Ta metoda omogoča gojenje gob tudi popolnim začetnikom z uporabo splošno dostopnih materialov.
Tukaj predstavljena različica temelji na PF-tek-u in vključuje nekatere dobro preizkušene spremembe in izboljšave.
sekakor pa vam priporočam tudi branje originalnega  [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]]-a, kjer boste lahko izsledili drugačen pristop k nekaterim korakom.

Po tukaj predstavljeni metodi se uporablja substrat, ki je narejen iz vermikulita, riževe moke in vode ter 250 ml kozarce za vlaganje ali pa običajne kozarce. Substrat je premešan, steriliziran in inokuliran (okužen) z gobjimi trosi. Potem, ko je popolnoma preraščen, moramo tortice prestaviti v večjo plastično posodo, kjer obrodijo gobice
.

!!Glede čistoče

Pri gojenju gob v kontroliranem okolju na umetno pripravljenem substratu se ustvarjajo pogoji, ki niso ugodne le za rast gob, ki jih želite vzgojiti, temveč tudi za veliko število drugih organizmov, od katerih so mnogi lahko celo zelo nevarni za zdravje.
Da bi si zagotovili rast samo izbrane vrste gob, je zelo pomembno, da zagotavljamo čimvečjo sterilnost v vseh fazah postopka.
Pred delom si temeljito umijte roke z antibakterijskim milom in toplo vodo, obrišite in razkužite z Lysolom ali alkoholom.
Soba, v kateri se izvaja inokulacija, mora biti čista. V njej ne nosite umazanih oblačil in čevljev. Enako pomembna je tudi osebna higiena
. Umazane roke in lasje so prava gojišča neželjenih organizov, ki lahko povzročijo veliko škode vašemu projektu.
Changed lines 34-38 from:
!!Materials

Most materials are easily avaliable at the local shops.

!!Vermiculite
to:
!! Materiali


!!Vermikulit
Changed lines 40-44 from:
[[http://www.schundler.com/techverm.htm | Vermiculite]] is made from a naturally occurring mineral - [[http://www.discovermyvillage.com/Articles/minerals/mica.html | mica]].
Crushed mica containing water is heated and expands to a volume several times greater than that of the untreated mica.
Vermiculite is able to hold several times its own weight in water and it gives the substrate an airy structure.
Vermiculite is available in several grades, the middle and the middle-fine grade are most suitable for cultivation purposes
.
to:
Vermikulit je narejen iz naravnega minerala - sljude.
Vermikulit je zdrobljena pečena sljuda
. Pri pečenju se razširi in njen volumen postane nekajkrat večji od volumna osnovnega materiala.
Vermikulit lahko zadrži precej več vode, kot je njegova osnovna teža, in daje substratu zračno strukturo.
Dobimo ga v različnih gradacijah, za gojenje pa je najprimernejša srednja ali srednje-drobna
.
Changed lines 48-69 from:
!!Online sources for vermiculite and perlite

'''USA'''
%target=blank%[[http://www
.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/vermiculite|vermiculite @ ebay]]
%target=blank%[[http://www
.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/perlite|perlite @ ebay]] 
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+vermiculite+site:.com+-schundler|vermiculite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+perlite+site:.com+-schundler|perlite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=vermiculite|vermiculite @ Froogle]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=perlite|perlite @ Froogle]]

'''Canada'''
[[http://www.hydroponics.com/pricing/index.html | www.hydroponics.com]]

'''United Kingdom'''
[[http://www.gro-lite.co.uk/hydroponics.htm | www.gro-lite.co.uk]]

'''Australia'''
[[http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/mediums.htm#verm | users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/]]

Vermiculite is generally available in garden and hydrophonic stores, in some regions also in pet shops.

!!Brown rice
flour (BRF)
to:
!!Kje lahko najdemo vermikulit in perlit

Vermikulit je na voljo v kmetijskih trgovinah in vrtnih centrih (npr
. Kalia). Komercialni imeni za Vermikulit in Perlit v Sloveniji pa sta Vermit in Zelena Lecca.

!!Moka iz rjavega riža (BRF
- brown rice flour)
Changed lines 55-61 from:
BRF is available in health food shops either already ground, sometimes though there is only whole brown rice available.
In this case you can grind the rice either in the shop or, if this option is not available, grind your own using an electrical coffee grinder.
BRF is best kept cool and dry for prolonged periods of time, since it can easily become rancid because of the fat content of its husk
.
If you are unable to find BRF you can also use whole wheat- or rye flour with similar results. Ground millet or ground millet based birdseed also work good.
[[http://www.google.com/search?q=%22%2Bbrown%2B%2Brice%2B%2Bflour%22%2B-cookies%2B-muffins%2B-bread|Google search for BRF]]
[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22brown%2Brice%2Bflour%22%2B-buttermilk%2B-chicken%2B-pasta%2B-syrup%2B-gravy%2B-lamb%2B-pantry%2B-beef%2B-shampoo%2B-glucan%2B-crackers | Froogle search for BRF]]

to:
BRF se ponavadi dobi v trgovinah z zdravo hrano. V kolikor ne najdemo že zmlete riževe moke, nabavimo cel rjavi riž.
V tem primeru riž zmeljemo z električnim mlinčkom za kavo.
BRF je potrebno hraniti na hladnem in suhem mestu, sicer hitro postane žaltav zaradi višje vsebnosti maščob v luščinah.
V kolikor rjavega riža ne dobimo, lahko podobne rezultate dosežemo tudi z uporabo moke celega zrnja  rži ali prosa
.
Changed lines 63-66 from:
!!Water 
Water used for the substrate preparation should have drinking water quality. Tap water is usually ok
, but if you're not sure about it, better use bottled drinking water or mineral water.

!!Spore syringe
to:
!!Voda
Za pripravo substrata uporabimo pitno vodo. V sloveniji je vode is pipe skaraj povsod ddovolj dobre kvalitete, če pa  niste prepričani v kvaliteto vaše vode, lahko uporabite vstekleničeno navadno ali mineralno vodo.

!!Injekcija s trosi
Changed lines 69-71 from:
A plastic syringe with needle attached containing 10cc -12cc suspension of mushroom spores in water.
The color of the suspension varies from completely translucent to slightly violet depending on the quantity of the spores in the solution.
Spores are microscopic so as long as you see at least a few specs in more or less clear water the syringe should have plenty of spores.  Available through the internet, for instance
to:
Plastična injekcija z nataknjeno iglo, ki vsebuje 10cc -12cc mešanice trosov in vode.
Barva suspenzije je lahko različna, od popolnoma prozorne do rahlo vijolične, odvisno od količine trosov v mešanici.
Trosi so mikroskopsko majhni, tako da bi moralo biti v injekciji trosov več kot dovolj, če v njej vidite vsaj nekaj skupkov trosov.

Injekcije s trosi lahko dobite naprimer v
Changed lines 77-78 from:
and many [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | more]].
to:
in še [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | mnogih ]] drugih.
Added line 90:
Added line 108:
Added line 201:
Changed lines 206-207 from:
To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
to:
To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
 
Added line 213:
Added line 267:
Changed lines 321-323 from:
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down. Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease
.
to:
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down.
Changed lines 324-325 from:
Pfpics:kuebel.jpg [[Pfpics:jar_slam.jpg | Pfpics:jar_slam_small.jpg]]
to:
Pfpics:kuebel.jpg
Added lines 327-333:
Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease.

(:cell width=350px:)
[[Pfpics:jar_slam.jpg | Pfpics:jar_slam_small.jpg]]

(:cellnr:)
Added line 348:
Added lines 1-386:
(:noautosections:)

====
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0 width=100% align=center:)
(:cell:)
Pfpics:shroom_zwerg1.gif

(:cell:)
%center%'+PF-Tek for Simple Minds+'
%center%for the cultivation of grain - loving mushrooms
%center%(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
%center%'-( updated: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

(:cell:)
Pfpics:shroom_zwerg.gif
(:tableend:)

====
The [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] was developed and first made public in 1992 by [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
This tek made the cultivation of mushrooms at home feasible for complete beginners utilizing commonly available materials.
The growing method I  describe here is based on the PF-tek but includes a few modifications that are time tested, and are, in my opinion, superior to the original PF-tek.
I strongly recommend you to read the original  [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], if you haven't done so already, to see a different approach to some steps.

The PF-Tek for Simple Minds uses ½ pint (~240ml) canning jars or drinking glasses and a growing substrate made of vermiculite, brown rice flour and water. The substrate is prepared, sterilized and inoculated with mushroom spores. After the substrate is fully colonized the fruiting takes place in a humid container.

!!On the subject of cleanliness

By growing mushrooms indoors on a nutritious substrate, you create conditions than not only favor the growth of the mushrooms, but also favor the growth of a large number of other organisms, many of them hazardous to the health.  To ensure that only the desired mushroom is grown, it is very important to assure cleanliness in all of the cultivation related procedures.

Before you work, wash your hands with (antibacterial) soap and warm water. Afterwards, wipe them dry and rub with Lysol or isopropyl-alcohol(iso-propanol).  Keep the rooms where you do the inoculation and fruiting dust free and clean and don't bring in dirty clothing or shoes.  Equally important is personal hygiene. Dirty hands, and even dirty hair, are a hotbed for all kinds of unwanted microorganisms which can destroy your cultivation project.

====
!!Materials

Most materials are easily avaliable at the local shops.

!!Vermiculite
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
[[http://www.schundler.com/techverm.htm | Vermiculite]] is made from a naturally occurring mineral - [[http://www.discovermyvillage.com/Articles/minerals/mica.html | mica]].
Crushed mica containing water is heated and expands to a volume several times greater than that of the untreated mica.
Vermiculite is able to hold several times its own weight in water and it gives the substrate an airy structure.
Vermiculite is available in several grades, the middle and the middle-fine grade are most suitable for cultivation purposes.

(:cell:) [[Pfpics:vermiculite.jpg|Pfpics:vermiculite_small.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Online sources for vermiculite and perlite

'''USA'''
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/vermiculite|vermiculite @ ebay]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/perlite|perlite @ ebay]] 
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+vermiculite+site:.com+-schundler|vermiculite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+perlite+site:.com+-schundler|perlite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=vermiculite|vermiculite @ Froogle]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=perlite|perlite @ Froogle]]

'''Canada'''
[[http://www.hydroponics.com/pricing/index.html | www.hydroponics.com]]

'''United Kingdom'''
[[http://www.gro-lite.co.uk/hydroponics.htm | www.gro-lite.co.uk]]

'''Australia'''
[[http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/mediums.htm#verm | users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/]]

Vermiculite is generally available in garden and hydrophonic stores, in some regions also in pet shops.

!!Brown rice flour (BRF)
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
BRF is available in health food shops either already ground, sometimes though there is only whole brown rice available.
In this case you can grind the rice either in the shop or, if this option is not available, grind your own using an electrical coffee grinder.
BRF is best kept cool and dry for prolonged periods of time, since it can easily become rancid because of the fat content of its husk.
If you are unable to find BRF you can also use whole wheat- or rye flour with similar results. Ground millet or ground millet based birdseed also work good.
[[http://www.google.com/search?q=%22%2Bbrown%2B%2Brice%2B%2Bflour%22%2B-cookies%2B-muffins%2B-bread|Google search for BRF]]
[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22brown%2Brice%2Bflour%22%2B-buttermilk%2B-chicken%2B-pasta%2B-syrup%2B-gravy%2B-lamb%2B-pantry%2B-beef%2B-shampoo%2B-glucan%2B-crackers | Froogle search for BRF]]

(:cell:)[[Pfpics:brownrice.jpg|Pfpics:brownrice_small.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Water 
Water used for the substrate preparation should have drinking water quality. Tap water is usually ok, but if you're not sure about it, better use bottled drinking water or mineral water.

!!Spore syringe
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
A plastic syringe with needle attached containing 10cc -12cc suspension of mushroom spores in water.
The color of the suspension varies from completely translucent to slightly violet depending on the quantity of the spores in the solution.
Spores are microscopic so as long as you see at least a few specs in more or less clear water the syringe should have plenty of spores.  Available through the internet, for instance
 
[[http://www.sporeworks.com/ | www.sporeworks.com]]
[[http://www.thehawkseye.com/ | www.thehawkseye.com]]
and many [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | more]].

(:cell:)
[[Pfpics:spritze.jpg | Pfpics:spritze_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Jars
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
The jars should have a content of around ½ pint (~240ml)
You can use either canning jars (Ball, Kerr...) or drinking glasses, the only requirement is that they are tapered and without shoulders, so you can slide the cake out of it in one piece once it's colonized. Bigger jars take much longer to colonize and are not recommended.
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23249 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the USA?]]
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23257 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the UK? ]]
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[[Pfpics:glaeser.jpg|Pfpics:glaeser_klein.jpg]]
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====
!!Substrate preparation
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For one ½ pint jar(~240 ml) you will need: 
=> 140 ml vermiculite
=>  40 ml brown rice flour
=>  some vermiculite to fill the jar to the top (app. 20 ml)
=> water

Note:
½pt(pint) = 1 cup = 236ml(milliliter) = 236cc(cubic centimeter) = 1/4 qt(quart)
The cups, pints and quarts are in the US liquid measuring system.
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Pfpics:zutaten.jpg

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Put the required amount of vermiculite for all the jars of one batch (for instance 6 jars: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ) in a bowl.

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Pfpics:mischen1.jpg

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Pour water slowly over the vermiculite while stirring with a spoon.
Be careful to only put that much water in as it can be absorbed by the vermiculite. Stir it well so all the vermiculite is uniformly soaked with water.

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Pfpics:verm_wasser.jpg Pfpics:vermiculite_wet.jpg

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When you tilt the bowl you should see just a little water starting coming from the vermiculite.
This is when the correct water content is achieved.
If there is too much water in the bowl, pour the wet vermiculite in a strainer and let the excess water drain for a minute. Then the vermiculite will be at the field capacity, which is perfect.

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Pfpics:wassergeh.jpg

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Now put the required amount of the BRF (for instance 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) into the wet vermiculite at once and mix it in with the spoon. The goal is to uniformly coat the wet vermiculite particles with a layer of BRF.

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Pfpics:vermiculite_brf.jpg Pfpics:vermiculite_brf_stirr.jpg[[<<]]Pfpics:vermiculite_brf_stirred.jpg

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Fill the mixture in jars ½ inch (1cm) under the top. it's very important to fill the substrate in the jars without tapping it down at all. It should stay very airy and loose to provide optimum conditions for the growth of mycelium.
Be careful not to leave any substrate on the upper edge of the jar. If you weren't careful enough and there are some substrate specks at the edge take a clean moist cloth and wipe the upper portion of the jar clean. Otherwise contaminants can start at those spots and work their way down into the jar.

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Pfpics:glas_leer.jpg Pfpics:glas_befuellen.jpg[[<<]]Pfpics:glas_voll.jpg

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Fill up the jar with dry vermiculite to the top.
This layer hinders airborne contaminants reaching the underlying substrate in case they manage to come in during the inoculation and incubation.

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Pfpics:jar_fill.jpg Pfpics:jar_filled.jpg

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Take a 5inch(12cm) wide stripe of aluminium foil and fold it in the middle.
Put the foil over the opening of the jar as shown in the pictures. If you're using jars with metal lids, you can poke 4 holes at the very edge of each lid with a small nail and hammer and screw the lid on. The holes should be slightly bigger than the diameter of the syringe needle.

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Pfpics:image034.jpg Pfpics:image036.jpg [[<<]]Pfpics:image038.jpg Pfpics:image040.jpg

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Fold the foil edges up and press them together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid.

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Pfpics:image042.jpg

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Then take a piece of foil measuring 5in x 5in in and put it over the first two layers (respectively the metal lid if you're using lids) leaving the edges of the foil reaching down, since it has to be lifted again during the inoculation.
So now you have 3 layers of foil over the opening. The top layer is lifted during the inoculation.

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Pfpics:image044.jpg Pfpics:image046.jpg Pfpics:image048.jpg
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====
!!Sterilization
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Pour approximately 1inch (2.5cm) of water into the pressure cooker, don't put in too much water otherwise it will come into the jars and alter their water content.
Then stack the jars into the pressure cooker. The use of a rack to keep the jars from directly touching the bottom of the cooker is strongly recommended.
Put the lid on and bring the cooker to the required pressure (15 psi = 1atm over atmospheric pressure) slowly over a period of 15 minutes on a medium flame.

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Pfpics:6glas.jpg Pfpics:skt_leer.jpg
Pfpics:skt_offen.jpg Pfpics:skt_aussen.jpg 
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If you heat up the cooker too fast this can cause the jars to crack.
As soon as the steam begins to escape the rocker or the vent at the top of the pressure cooker turn the heat back so only a very small, steady steam flow persists from the vent. From this point on, pressure cook for 45 minutes.
Depending on the pressure cooker model the cooking procedure works a bit different so if you're not familiar with pressure cooking consult the instruction manual or someone who used pressure cookers before.
After 45 min take the cooker from the flame and let cool for at least 5 hours or even better over night.
If you are unable to find or buy a pressure cooker, you can also sterilize the jars using a big pot with a lid.
In this case steam the jars for 1.5 hours in a pot lid on. Use only approximately 1 inch of water at the bottom.
You might have to add some water to the pot during steaming due to evaporation.
If you never have used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].

====
!!Inoculation
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After the cooker is cold to the touch take the jars out and place them on a clean surface, have an alcohol lamp or a lighter and the spore syringe ready. Shake the spore syringe to break up the spore clumps.
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Pfpics:glas_spritze.jpg Pfpics:schuett.jpg

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To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
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Pfpics:flamme.jpg

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Loosen the foil from all of the jars so it can be lifted easily when you inoculate.
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Pfpics:glas_foile_auf.jpg

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Take the cover from the needle and heat it over the flame until glowing red. Let cool for a few seconds

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Pfpics:flamme.jpg

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Take the upper foil layer off and put aside upside down.

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Pfpics:glas_ofolie.jpg

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Pierce the foil at the edge of the jar with the needle app. 1in(2.5cm) deep and inject the spore suspension towards the inner jar surface. You should see a small drop running down the inner surface of the jar towards the bottom. Each jar is inoculated on 4 equally spaced points. You should use 1 - 1.5 ml of the spore suspension per jar so one 10ml syringe is sufficient for 6 -10 jars.

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Pfpics:glas_impfen.jpg Pfpics:glas_beimpft.jpg

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Put the foil on again. Flame sterilize the needle again after inoculating 3 jars to prevent cross contamination just in case a jar wasn't properly sterilized.
When all of the jars are inoculated fold the foil edges up and press them firmly together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid. Write the inoculation date and the species/strain information on the foil with an all surface felt tip pen. If you touch something other with the needle during the inoculation procedure except the foil surface of the bottom foil layer immediately flame sterilize the tip again.

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Pfpics:image072.jpg Pfpics:image074.jpg
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====
!!Incubation

The jars should be stored at 21-27°C (70-81°F), the warmer the better, but not exceeding 27°C. If you don't have these temperatures at home you can build an incubator to accommodate the jars.

!!Incubator

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The inoculated jars develop fastest if they are stored at a temperature of 27°C (80°F) (According to Stamets the best incubation temperature for ''P. cubensis'' would be 86°F, but since the jars themselves are a few degrees warmer than the surroundings (mycelium emits heat when growing) 80°F is a good and safe incubator temperature)

You can build an effective incubator by using two plastic boxes of the same size and an aquarium heater. 
There are several types of aquarium heaters. When you´re buying a heater, make sure that it is of the "fully submersible" type. 
Attach the heater to the bottom of the first box and pour in as much 27°C warm water that the heater is completely submerged.
Adjust the heaters thermostat so that the heater just shuts itself off at 27°C .
Put some spacers on the bottom of the box, they carry the second box and prevent it from touching the heater. In the above picture 4 jars are used. You could also use bricks, stones or something similar.

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Pfpics:inkubator1.jpg
[[Pfpics:waterlevel.gif | Pfpics:waterlevel_small.gif]]

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Put the second box in the one containing water.
After a few hours measure the temperature again and adjust the heater if necessary so the water temperature is 27°C.
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Pfpics:inkubator2.jpg

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When the box is empty, it will float on the water.
The water level in the lower box should reach app. 2/3 the height of the box, supposing the upper box is in place loaded with jars and resting on the spacers.

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[[Pfpics:waterlevel2.jpg | Pfpics:waterlevel2_small.jpg]]

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Now you can put the inoculated jars into the box.

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Pfpics:inkubator3.jpg

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Cover the jars with a blanket to keep the heat escaping and to keep the jars dark. Note: the water level drops in some weeks by evaporation. Therefore you have to fill some fresh water in from time to time to keep the water level high enough. Never let evaporate so much water that the heater isn´t submerged in water anymore! You can get all of the above items at [[http://www.tkqlhce.com/7o70uoxuowBDJKGCLGBHLCECIL | www.ebay.com]] for a very good price.

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Pfpics:inkubator4.jpg
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====
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Providing the jars are kept warm you should see the first sign of germination after 3-5 days as bright white specks. This is mycelium. If anything grows that is not white, for instance green, black or pink, then the jars are contaminated and their content must be discarded and your clean procedures need some improvement. After the jars are emptied and the jar is washed with detergent and hot water it can be used again. 
Check the [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]] for more information on possible contaminations in mushroom culture.

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[[Pfpics:kol1.jpg | Pfpics:kol1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol2.jpg | Pfpics:kol2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol3.jpg | Pfpics:kol3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol4.jpg | Pfpics:kol4_klein.jpg]]

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Depending on the temperature and the viability of the spore syringe it takes 14-28 days for the mycelium to colonize the whole jar. Once colonized store the jars at normal room temperature, about 21°C (70°F) to initiate pinning.
Don't expose the jars to direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight (= the natural light that lights up a room because at day time out) or a low wattage lamp (cool white fluorescent lamp is ideal, incandescent lamp is less suitable) for 4-12 hours a day is sufficient.

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[[Pfpics:glas_bewachsen.jpg | Pfpics:glas_bewachsen_klein.jpg]]

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Within 5-10 days (with certain mushroom strains it can however take up to 30 days) pinhead-size accumulations of mycelium should form. These so called pins represent the beginning of mushroom growth. In the following days also small mushrooms with brown heads become visible. When this is the case it's time to birth the cake into the fruiting container where the mushrooms can develop to maturity.
Some strains don't easily develop pins. In this case put the colonized jar wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge over night and then proceed to [[http://www.fungifun.org/pf/fruiting.htm | fruiting]] next day, even if the cake doesn´t show pins yet. This cold shocking usually helps trigger pinning somewhat.

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[[Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_1.jpg | Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_1_klein.jpg ]]
[[Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_2.jpg | Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_2_klein.jpg]]
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====
!!Fruiting
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The fruiting of the cakes can be accomplished in any sort of container that can be loosely sealed and has at least one translucent side, preferably on the top. Suitable containers are a plastic bucket, rubbermaid container, terrarium, aquarium...
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down. Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease.

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Pfpics:kuebel.jpg [[Pfpics:jar_slam.jpg | Pfpics:jar_slam_small.jpg]]

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If you have a bigger fruiting chamber (a bigger plastic container or a terrarium) you can of course put in more than one cake to fruit.
The distance between the cakes should be at least 2" (5cm) for the mushrooms have room to grow. Put a sheet of translucent plastic over the opening of the fruiting container. Take this sheet off once a day and fan the air out with a piece of cardboard. If the bottom layer begins to dry out, spray it with some water to keep it moist since this layer provides moisture for the air to stay very humid. Don&acute;t spray the cakes directly.
Handle the cakes as little as possible but when you do it allways wash your hands thouroughly beforehand.
Over a course of the bext 7-14 days the cakes will begin to pin(if the haven't began to pin in the jars yet) and the small mushrooms will grow big in a matter of 2-5 days and as soon the caps begin to open they can be harvested.
This simultanious maturation of all mushrooms is called a flush.

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[[Pfpics:gt1.jpg | Pfpics:gt1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt2.jpg | Pfpics:gt2_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt3.jpg | Pfpics:gt3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt4.jpg | Pfpics:gt4_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt5.jpg | Pfpics:gt5_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt6.jpg | Pfpics:gt6_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt7.jpg | Pfpics:gt7_klein.jpg]]

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After the mushrooms have grown big there are usually a few small, stunted mushrooms left over, they are called aborts. They can be recognized by their blackish heads and the fact that they stopped growing at some point. Still they are good to use unless they are rotten.
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[[Pfpics:aborts1_big.jpg | Pfpics:aborts1.jpg]]
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It's crucial that you harvest all mushrooms, also the aborts, after the flush. This is most easily accomplished if you harvest the mushrooms off by gently twisting and tearing them off the cake with clean hands. Optionally you can [[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.

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After approximately one week small mushrooms begin to form again and mature during the next days.
This cycle can repeat itself up to 4 times sometimes even more. After that the cake is exhausted it produces no more mushrooms and can be discarded. They can be also used to start [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | outdoor beds]].

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[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_0.jpg | Pfpics:cake_2flush_0_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_2flush_1.jpg | Pfpics:cake_2flush_1_klein.jpg]]

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Sometimes green mold attacks the cakes even before they are completely exhausted. If this is the case remove and discard the contaminated cakes immediately to prevent the spreading of the contamination.

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[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_2.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_2flush_3.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_3_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_4.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_4_klein.jpg]]

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3'^rd^' flush:

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[[Pfpics:cake_3flush_1.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_2.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_3.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_4.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_4_klein.jpg]]

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4'^th^' and final  flush:

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[[Pfpics:cake_4flush.jpg|Pfpics:cake_4flush_klein.jpg]]
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Page last modified on April 07, 2008, at 11:14 AM