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(:youtube 3iFi3YrIo7o:)
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%center%(:youtube 3iFi3YrIo7o:)
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>>yellowbox<<

%center%'+I made a video of the substrate preparation and inoculation
:+'
%center%%newwin%http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iFi3YrIo7o

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(:youtube 3iFi3YrIo7o:)
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%define=yellowbox box bgcolor=#fff7cb border='1px solid #ffad80'%
>>yellowbox<<

%center%'+I made a video of the substrate preparation and inoculation:+'
%center%%newwin%http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iFi3YrIo7o

>><<
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También es importante que todas las setas de una tanda se arranquen a la vez, incluidos los abortos. Para quitar una seta, agárrala del pie y gira hasta que se desprenda del pastel. Ten siempre las manos limpias.
to:
También es importante que todas las setas de una tanda se arranquen a la vez, incluidos los abortos. Para quitar una seta, agárrala del pie y gira hasta que se desprenda del pastel. Ten siempre las manos limpias. Optionally you can [[http://www.thenook.org/archives/dunktek.htm | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.
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y muchas [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | más]].
to:
y muchas [[http://www.shroomery.org/sponsors.php | más]].
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If you never have used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].
to:
If you never have used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[English/Pressure-Cooker-Use | correct pressure cooker use]].
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[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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[[English/Contact | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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(:cell align=center:)
!PF-Tek para Mentes Simples
para el cultivo de setas amantes de sustratos en grano
(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
'-( última acutalización: {$LastModified} )-'
'-Para cualquier sugerencia o comentario que deseaishacer en cualquier momento-'
[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

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%center%'+PF-Tek para Mentes Simples+'
%center%para el cultivo de setas amantes de sustratos en grano
%center%(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
%center%'-( última acutalización: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-Para cualquier sugerencia o comentario que deseaishacer en cualquier momento-'
%center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

(:cell:)
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%center%'-Para cualquier sugerencia o comentario que deseais-'
%center%'-hacer
en cualquier momento-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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%center%'-Para cualquier sugerencia o comentario que deseaishacer en cualquier momento-'
%center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
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!!Proveedores en internet de vermiculita y perlita
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!!!Proveedores en internet de vermiculita y perlita
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!!Vermiculita
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!!!Vermiculita
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España
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'''España'''
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!! Harina de arroz integral (BRF)
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!!!Harina de arroz integral (BRF)
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!!Agua
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!!!Agua
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!!Jeringuilla de esporas
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!!!Jeringuilla de esporas
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!!Tarros
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!!!Tarros
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====[[#a6]]
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====
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====
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(:title PF-Tek para Mentes Simples:)
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====
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(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0 width=100% align=center:)
(:cell:)
[[#a1|Materiales]]
(:cell:)
[[#a2|Sustrato]]
(:cell:)
[[#a3|Esterilización]]
(:cell:)
[[#a4|Inoculación]]
(:cell:)
[[#a5|Incubación]]
(:cell:)
[[#a6|Fructificación]]
(:tableend:)

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====
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!!Fruiting
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====[[#a5]]
!!Fructificación
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!!Sterilization
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!!Esterilización
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!!Inoculation
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!!Inoculación
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After the cooker is cold to the touch take the jars out and place them on a clean surface, have an alcohol lamp or a lighter and the spore syringe ready. Shake the spore syringe to break up the spore clumps.
to:
Cuando la olla a presión se haya enfriado, saca los tarros y ponlos sobre una superficie limpia. Ten un mechero de alcohol o de gas preparado y la jeringuilla con esporas. Menea la jeringuilla para mezclar bien las  esporas con el agua.
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To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
to:
Para poder menear la jeringuilla adecuadamente, es conveniente que tenga alguna burbuja de aire dentro. Si la jeringuilla que has hecho o comprado no tiene burbuja alguna, puedes introducir 1 cc de aire estéril succionándolo mientras quemas la punta de la aguja al rojo vivo con un mechero.
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Loosen the foil from all of the jars so it can be lifted easily when you inoculate.
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Para hacer más cómodo el proceso de inoculación, suelta el papel de aluminio de los vasos de modo que se facilite su posterior retiro.
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Take the cover from the needle and heat it over the flame until glowing red. Let cool for a few seconds
to:
Quita el plástico protector de la aguja y quémala con el mechero hasta el rojo vivo. Deja que se enfríe unos segundos.
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Take the upper foil layer off and put aside upside down.
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Quita la primera capa de papel de alumino del tarro y reserva (ver foto).
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Pierce the foil at the edge of the jar with the needle app. 1in(2.5cm) deep and inject the spore suspension towards the inner jar surface. You should see a small drop running down the inner surface of the jar towards the bottom. Each jar is inoculated on 4 equally spaced points. You should use 1 - 1.5 ml of the spore suspension per jar so one 10ml syringe is sufficient for 6 -10 jars.
to:
Atraviesa con la aguja el papel de aluminio en un punto cercano al borde del vaso (ver foto). Introduce la aguja unos 2-3 cm. e inyecta las esporas mientras la aguja toca con el borde interior del vaso, podrás ver como parte de la solución escurre hacia el fondo del vaso. Cada vaso se inoculará en cuatro puntos diferentes y equidistantes, viene explicado en uno de los puntos anteriores. Hay que inyectar entre 1-1.5 cc de solución de esporas en cada vaso (0.25-0,4 cc por agujero). Por tanto, con una jeringuilla de 10 cc podremos inocular entre 6-10 vasos.
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Put the foil on again. Flame sterilize the needle again after inoculating 3 jars to prevent cross contamination just in case a jar wasn't properly sterilized.
When all of the jars are inoculated fold the foil edges up and press them firmly together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid. Write the inoculation date and the species/strain information on the foil with an all surface felt tip pen. If you touch something other with the needle during the inoculation procedure except the foil surface of the bottom foil layer immediately flame sterilize the tip again
.
to:
Tapa de nuevo el vaso con el trozo de papel de aluminio que habías quitado para inocular. Conviene esterilizar la aguja cada 2 tarros inoculados para prevenir contaminaciones. En caso de que un vaso esté mal esterilizado, podría contaminar el resto. Si por casualidad en algún momento la aguja toca otra cosa que no sea el interior del vaso, habrá que esterilizar con el mechero.
Cuando termines de inocular todos los vasos, asegúrate de que quedan bien tapados (ver foto). Escribe en el papel de aluminio con un rotulador, la fecha de inoculación y nombre de la seta
.
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!!Incubation

The jars should be stored at 21-27°C (70-81°F), the warmer the better, but not exceeding 27°C. If you don't have these temperatures at home you can build an incubator to accommodate the jars.

to:
!!Incubación

Los vasos deben incubarse a una temperatura de entre 21-27ºC, mejor más alta que baja, pero nunca excediendo los 27ºC. Si no te es posible mantener estas temperaturas puedes fabricarte un  incubador.

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Providing the jars are kept warm you should see the first sign of germination after 3-5 days as bright white specks. This is mycelium. If anything grows that is not white, for instance green, black or pink, then the jars are contaminated and their content must be discarded and your clean procedures need some improvement. After the jars are emptied and the jar is washed with detergent and hot water it can be used again. 
Check the [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]] for more information on possible contaminations in mushroom culture
.
to:
Manteniendo las condiciones idóneas, deberías empezar a ver los primeros signos de germinación: son pequeñas motas de color blanco nieve. Es el micelio. El color del micelio es siempre blanco, si ves otro color, es decir verde, rojo, rosa, negro... los vasos están contaminados y el contenido debe tirarse a la mayor brevedad posible. Deberás repasar tus procedimientos higiénicos para mejorarlos y reducir al mínimo el  % de vasos contaminados. Una vez vaciados y lavados con detergente y agua caliente, estarán listos para usar nuevamente. 
En [[http://www
.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]]hay información detallada sobre los contaminantes más frecuentes en el cultivo de setas.
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Depending on the temperature and the viability of the spore syringe it takes 14-28 days for the mycelium to colonize the whole jar. Once colonized store the jars at normal room temperature, about 21°C (70°F) to initiate pinning.
Don't expose the jars to direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight (= the natural light that lights up a room because at day time out) or a low wattage lamp (cool white fluorescent lamp is ideal, incandescent lamp is less suitable) for 4-12 hours a day is sufficient
.
to:
Dependiendo de la temperatura de incubación, los vasos estarán totalmente colonizados en 14-25 días. Una vez esto ocurre, hay que bajar la temperatura a 21ºC y los vasos tendrán que recibir luz indirecta.
Nunca deben recibir luz directa
.
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Within 5-10 days (with certain mushroom strains it can however take up to 30 days) pinhead-size accumulations of mycelium should form. These so called pins represent the beginning of mushroom growth. In the following days also small mushrooms with brown heads become visible. When this is the case it's time to birth the cake into the fruiting container where the mushrooms can develop to maturity.
Some strains don't easily develop pins. In this case put the colonized jar wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge over night and then proceed to [[http://www
.fungifun.org/pf/fruiting.htm | fruiting]] next day, even if the cake doesn´t show pins yet. This cold shocking usually helps trigger pinning somewhat.
to:
En 5-10 días (con algunas especies puede tardar hasta 30 días) se empezarán a ver pequeñas acumulaciones de micelio llamados primordios. Éstos son el comienzo de las setas. En un par de días, se podrán ver  perfectamente pequeñas setas con sombrero marrón creciendo dentro del vaso. Es el momento de "parir" el pastel (sacarlo del vaso) y ponerlo en el terrario donde se desarrollarán completamente.
Algunas especies no producen setas tan fácilmente. Si es el caso, mete los vasos en bolsas de plástico y ponlos en la nevera (no congelador) durante toda la noche
. Al día siguiente, saca los pasteles del vaso y mételos en el terrario para que fructifiquen. Éste shock de frío (cold shock) provoca que el micelio empiece a producir setas.
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The fruiting of the cakes can be accomplished in any sort of container that can be loosely sealed and has at least one translucent side, preferably on the top. Suitable containers are a plastic bucket, rubbermaid container, terrarium, aquarium...
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www
.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down. Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease.

to:
La fructificación se puede llevar a cabo en cualquier tipo de contenedor que pueda ser cerrado fácilmente y que tenga al menos uno de los lados transparente, que preferiblemente debería estar arriba. Cubos de basura, cajones de neveras, cajas de plástico, terrarios, acuarios... son algunos tipos de contenedores que se utilizan para éste fin.
Esparce una capa humedecida de 1 cm de [[http://www.otavi.es/index.htm|perlita]] o [[http://www.asocoa.com/producte.asp?cat=&id_prod=0360|arcilla expandida]]  o incluso una toalla mojada de papel en el fondo del contenedor y pon con mucho cuidado los pasteles encima dejándolos que caigan por su propio peso dando la vuelta a los vasos.
Si el contenedor es lo suficientemente grande se podrán poner varios pasteles a fructificar, lo importante es que estén separados unos de otros por una distancia mínima de 5 cm. De este modo las setas tendrán espacio suficiente para crecer sin estar entorpeciéndose unas a otras.

Tapa el contenedor con un trozo de plástico transparente. Una vez al día tendrás que renovar el aire del interior del contenedor utilizando por ejemplo, un trozo de cartón. Si la capa del fondo se seca, pulveriza agua encima para mantener el nivel de humedad óptimo. Esta capa es la que mantiene una alta humedad relativa dentro del contenedor. Nunca pulverices agua directamente sobre los pasteles.
Trata los pasteles con mucho mimo y en caso de tener que manipularlos, lávate las manos muy bien antes de proceder.

Algunas veces los pasteles se resisten a abandonar los vasos. En este caso, coje el vaso al revés sobre la palma de una mano y golpea con la otra, el dorso de la mano que sujeta el vaso (ver foto). Esto desprenderá el pastel de las paredes del vaso y saldrá sin problemas.
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If you have a bigger fruiting chamber (a bigger plastic container or a terrarium) you can of course put in more than one cake to fruit.
The distance between the cakes should be at least 2"
(5cm) for the mushrooms have room to grow. Put a sheet of translucent plastic over the opening of the fruiting container. Take this sheet off once a day and fan the air out with a piece of cardboard. If the bottom layer begins to dry out, spray it with some water to keep it moist since this layer provides moisture for the air to stay very humid. Don&acute;t spray the cakes directly.
Handle the cakes as little as possible but when you do it allways wash your hands thouroughly beforehand.
Over a course of the bext 7-14 days the cakes will begin to pin(if the haven't began to pin in the jars yet) and the small mushrooms will grow big in a matter of 2-5 days and as soon the caps begin to open they can be harvested.
This simultanious maturation of all mushrooms is called a flush.

to:
Las setas se desarrollarán en cuestión de días. En cuanto los sombreros empiezan a abrirse, las setas se pueden arrancar y proceder a su secado.
La aparición y desarrollo simultáneo de un número determinado de setas se denomina tanda
(flush).
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After the mushrooms have grown big there are usually a few small, stunted mushrooms left over, they are called aborts. They can be recognized by their blackish heads and the fact that they stopped growing at some point. Still they are good to use unless they are rotten.
to:
Algunas setas crecerán hasta un tamaño desarrollado mientras que otras permanecerán pequeñas y nunca crecerán más, son los abortos. Se reconocen muy bien porque sus sombreros son negros y porque dejan de crecer en algún momento, claro está. Estas setas se pueden consumir también, siempre y cuando no hayan empezado a pudrirse.
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It's crucial that you harvest all mushrooms, also the aborts, after the flush. This is most easily accomplished if you harvest the mushrooms off by gently twisting and tearing them off the cake with clean hands. Optionally you can [[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.
to:
También es importante que todas las setas de una tanda se arranquen a la vez, incluidos los abortos. Para quitar una seta, agárrala del pie y gira hasta que se desprenda del pastel. Ten siempre las manos limpias.

Existe la opción de 
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23292|sumergir]] los pasteles en agua entre tanda y tanda para rehidratarlos. Las setas las tendremos que haber quitado previamente. Esta práctica mejora la calidad y cantidad de las tandas sucesivas.
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After approximately one week small mushrooms begin to form again and mature during the next days.
This cycle can repeat itself up to 4 times sometimes even more. After that the cake is exhausted it produces
no more mushrooms and can be discarded. They can be also used to start [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | outdoor beds]].
to:
Tras una semana, una nueva tanda de setas empezará a crecer y madurará en pocos días.
Este ciclo se repite unas 4 veces y a veces más. Entonces el pastel pierde la capacidad de producir setas porque ya no contiene nutrientes que puedan proveer el crecimiento de más setas. El pastel ya no vale y hay que tirarlo aunque se puede utilizar para empezar un cultivo de [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | exterior]].
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Sometimes green mold attacks the cakes even before they are completely exhausted. If this is the case remove and discard the contaminated cakes immediately to prevent the spreading of the contamination.
to:
Algunas veces, el moho verde ataca a los pasteles antes de producir las 4 tandas mínimas esperadas. Mala suerte, hay que deshacerse de ellos para evitar que la contaminación se extienda por toda nuestra casa y nos arruine futuros proyectos.
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3'^rd^' flush: 
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3ª tanda:
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4'^th^' and final  flush: 
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4ª tanda, la última:
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!!Water 
Water used for the substrate preparation should have drinking water quality. Tap water is usually ok
, but if you're not sure about it, better use bottled drinking water or mineral water.

!!Spore syringe
to:
!!Agua
El agua que empleemos para la preparación del sustrato debe de ser potable y de cierta calidad. Normalmente, el agua del grifo sirve, pero si no se está seguro de su calidad, lo mejor es utilizar agua embotellada o mineral.

!!Jeringuilla de esporas
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A plastic syringe with needle attached containing 10cc -12cc suspension of mushroom spores in water.
The color of the suspension varies from completely translucent to slightly violet depending on the quantity of the spores in the solution.
Spores are microscopic so as long as you see at least a few specs in more or less clear water the syringe should have plenty of spores.  Available through the internet, for instance
 
to:
Se trata de una jeringuilla de plástico de unos 10-12cc de capacidad que contiene una solución acuosa con esporas en suspensión.
El aspecto de la jeringuilla de esporas puede variar desde completamente transparente a ligeramente violeta, dependiendo de la cantidad de esporas que haya en la solución.
Las esporas son microscópicas, así que aunque parezca que es solo agua, en realidad habrá multitud de ellas dentro de la jeringuilla.

A continuación algunas direcciones donde se pueden conseguir esporas de setas.

[[http://www.sjamaan.nl/|www.sjamaan.nl]]
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and many [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | more]].
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y muchas [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | más]].
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!!Jars
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!!Tarros
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The jars should have a content of around ½ pint (~240ml)
You can use either canning jars
(Ball, Kerr...) or drinking glasses, the only requirement is that they are tapered and without shoulders, so you can slide the cake out of it in one piece once it's colonized. Bigger jars take much longer to colonize and are not recommended.
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23249 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the USA?]]
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23257 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the UK? ]]

to:
Los tarros deberán tener una capacidad aproximada de  ½ pinta (~240ml).
Se pueden utilizar tarros de conservas o vasos
(ver foto), lo importante es que la boca sea más ancha que la base, de éste modo y una vez colonizado por el micelio, podremos sacar el pastel del vaso o tarro de una sola pieza sin dificultades.
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!!Substrate preparation
to:
!!Preparación del sustrato
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For one ½ pint jar(~240 ml) you will need:  
=> 140 ml vermiculite
=>  40 ml brown rice flour
=>  some vermiculite to fill the jar to the top (app. 20 ml)
=> water

Note:
½pt(pint) = 1 cup = 236ml(milliliter) = 236cc(cubic centimeter) = 1/4 qt(quart)
The cups, pints and quarts are in the US liquid measuring system.

to:
Para un tarro de ½ pinta (~240 ml) necesitarás:

=> 140 ml vermiculita
=> 40 ml harina de arroz integral
=> algo de vermiculita para rellenar la parte superior del tarro (aprox. 20 ml)
=> agua

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Put the required amount of vermiculite for all the jars of one batch (for instance 6 jars: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ) in a bowl.
to:
Pon en un bol la cantidad total de vermiculita  necesaria para preparar todos los tarros de la tanda que vamos a hacer. Por ejemplo, para 6 tarros: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml.
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Pour water slowly over the vermiculite while stirring with a spoon.
Be careful to only put that much water in as it can be absorbed by the vermiculite. Stir it well so all the vermiculite is uniformly soaked with water
.
to:
Añade poco a poco el agua a la vermiculita mientras remueves al mismo tiempo con una cuchara.
Hay que tener cuidado de no añadir más agua de la que es capaz de absorber la vermiculita. Remueve bien para que la vermiculita se humedezca lo más uniformemente posible
.
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When you tilt the bowl you should see just a little water starting coming from the vermiculite.
This is when the correct water content is achieved.
If there is too much water in the bowl, pour the wet vermiculite in a strainer and let the excess water drain for a minute
. Then the vermiculite will be at the field capacity, which is perfect.
to:
Si inclinas el bol, solo una pequeña cantidad de agua debe acumularse en el fondo (ver foto).
Ésto nos indica que la cantidad de agua en la vermiculita es el correcto.
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Now put the required amount of the BRF (for instance 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) into the wet vermiculite at once and mix it in with the spoon. The goal is to uniformly coat the wet vermiculite particles with a layer of BRF.
to:
Ahora añade de golpe toda la harina de arroz integral a la vermiculita y mezcla bien. Siguiendo el ejemplo anterior: 6 tarros x 40 ml = 240 ml. El objetivo es que todas las partículas de vermiculita queden rebozadas homogéneamente con la harina.
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Fill the mixture in jars ½ inch (1cm) under the top. it's very important to fill the substrate in the jars without tapping it down at all. It should stay very airy and loose to provide optimum conditions for the growth of mycelium.
Be careful not to leave any substrate on the upper edge of the jar
. If you weren't careful enough and there are some substrate specks at the edge take a clean moist cloth and wipe the upper portion of the jar clean. Otherwise contaminants can start at those spots and work their way down into the jar. 
to:
Rellena los tarros con la mezcla dejando 1cm libre en la parte superior. No hay que apretar la mezcla, hay que dejarla suelta y aireada que es como mejor y más rápido crece el micelio.
También tendrás que tener cuidado para no dejar restos de sustrato en la parte superior vacía ni en los bordes del tarro
. Si se mancha o quedan restos en estas zonas, hay que limpiarlas bien con un trapo ya que pueden ser foco de infecciones más adelante, arruinándonos el proyecto por completo.
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Fill up the jar with dry vermiculite to the top.
This layer hinders airborne contaminants reaching the underlying substrate in case they manage to come in during the inoculation and incubation
.
to:
Ahora termina de rellenar el tarro con vermiculita. Está capa de vermiculita protegerá al sustrato actuando como barrera frente a contaminaciones que puedan surgir en el proceso.
Changed lines 153-155 from:
Take a 5inch(12cm) wide stripe of aluminium foil and fold it in the middle.
Put the foil over the opening of the jar as shown in the pictures. If you're using jars with metal lids, you can poke 4 holes at the very edge of each lid with a small nail and hammer and screw the lid on. The holes should be slightly bigger than the diameter of the syringe needle
.
to:
Corta un trozo de papel de aluminio de unos 12 cm de ancho y doblalo por la mitad.
Pon el trozo doblado sobre el vaso como para taparlo (ver foto).
Si estás utilizando tarros, hay que hacer 4 agujeros en la tapa. Los agujeros tendrán que tener la misma distancia entre ellos. Si considerásemos la tapa del tarro una esfera de rejoj, haríamos un agujero en las 12, otro en las 3, otro en las 6 y un último en las 9. Los podemos hacer con un clavo pequeño y un martillo. Lo importante es que los agujeros sean un poco más grandes que el diámetro de la aguja con la que inyectaremos las esporas
.
Changed lines 161-162 from:
Fold the foil edges up and press them together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid.
to:
Ajusta el papel de aluminio firmemente al vaso para que quede bien tapado (ver foto)
Changed lines 167-169 from:
Then take a piece of foil measuring 5in x 5in in and put it over the first two layers (respectively the metal lid if you're using lids) leaving the edges of the foil reaching down, since it has to be lifted again during the inoculation.
So now you have 3 layers of foil over the opening. The top layer is lifted during the inoculation.

to:
Pon sobre el vaso ya cubierto otro trozo de papel de aluminio de unos 12 cm x 12 cm. Si has preparado tarros, cubre la tapa igualmente. Dejaremos los bordes del papel de aluminio un poco separados del vaso ya que ésta última capa habrá que quitarla para inocular las esporas en el sustrato.
El resultado final es un vaso cubierto por 3 capas de papel de aluminio.

Changed lines 178-181 from:
Pour approximately 1inch (2.5cm) of water into the pressure cooker, don't put in too much water otherwise it will come into the jars and alter their water content.
Then stack the jars into the pressure cooker. The use of a rack to keep the jars from directly touching the bottom of the cooker is strongly recommended.
Put the lid on and bring the cooker to the required pressure (15 psi = 1atm over atmospheric pressure) slowly over a period of 15 minutes on a medium flame.

to:
Vierte aproximadamente 2,5 cm de agua en la olla a presión. No excedas ésta cantidad porque el agua podría introducirse en los vasos al hervir, alterando así el contenido óptimo de la misma en el sustrato.
Introduce los tarros en la olla a presión. Es recomendable utilizar una rejilla para evitar que  los tarros estén en contacto directo con el fondo de la olla.
Cierra la olla y ponla a fuego medio hasta conseguir la presión adecuada (15 psi = 1 atm en presión atmosférica = 1000 gr/cm2). Si calentamos la olla  demasiado rápido, corremos el riesgo de que algún tarro se rompa por el brusco cambio de temperatura.

Changed lines 187-193 from:
If you heat up the cooker too fast this can cause the jars to crack.
As soon as the steam begins to escape the rocker or the vent at the top of the pressure cooker turn the heat back so only a very small, steady steam flow persists from the vent. From this point on, pressure cook for 45 minutes.
Depending on the pressure cooker model the cooking procedure works a bit different so if you're not familiar with pressure cooking consult the instruction manual or someone who used pressure cookers before.
After 45 min take the cooker from the flame and let cool for at least 5 hours or even better over night.
If you are unable to find or buy a pressure cooker, you can also sterilize the jars using a big pot with a lid.
In this case steam the jars for 1.5 hours in a pot lid on
. Use only approximately 1 inch of water at the bottom.
You might have to add some water to the pot during steaming due to evaporation.
to:
En cuanto empiece a salir el vapor por la válvula, baja el fuego hasta conseguir  mantener un constante escape de vapor, sin subidas ni bajadas. Una vez llegues a este punto, esteriliza los tarros durante 45 minutos.
El procedimiento puede cambiar dependiendo de la olla  que utilicemos. Si no tienes experiencia utilizando ollas a presión, lo mejor es que consultes el manual de instrucciones o preguntes a alguna persona que esté familiarizada con su uso.
Transcurridos los 45 minutos, retira la olla del fuego y deja enfriar a temperatura ambiente durante al menos, 5 horas.
En caso de no tener acceso a una olla a presión, la esterilización se puede realizar en una cazerola grande con tapa. En éste caso hay que cocer los tarros durante 1.5 horas. Debido a la evaporación que se produce con la cocción, tendrás que mantener el nivel de agua, añadiendo más cantidad según sea necesario
.
Changed lines 9-10 from:
%center%'+PF-Tek for Simple Minds+'
%center%for the cultivation of grain - loving mushrooms
to:
%center%'+PF-Tek para Mentes Simples+'
%center%para el cultivo de setas amantes de sustratos en grano
Changed lines 12-14 from:
%center%'-( updated: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
to:
%center%'-( última acutalización: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-Para cualquier sugerencia o comentario que deseais-'
%center%'-hacer en cualquier momento
-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]
Changed lines 21-33 from:
The [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] was developed and first made public in 1992 by [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
This tek made the cultivation of mushrooms at home feasible for complete beginners utilizing commonly available materials.
The growing method I  describe here is based on the PF-tek but includes a few modifications that are time tested, and are, in my opinion, superior to the original PF-tek.
I strongly recommend you to read the original 
[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], if you haven't done so already, to see a different approach to some steps.

The PF-Tek for Simple Minds uses ½ pint (~240ml) canning jars or drinking glasses and a growing substrate made of vermiculite, brown rice flour and water. The substrate is prepared, sterilized and inoculated with mushroom spores. After the substrate is fully colonized the fruiting takes place in a humid container.

!!On the subject of cleanliness

By growing mushrooms indoors on a nutritious substrate, you create conditions than not only favor the growth of the mushrooms, but also favor the growth of a large number of other organisms, many of them hazardous to the health.  To ensure that only the desired mushroom is grown, it is very important to assure cleanliness in all of the cultivation related procedures.

Before you work
, wash your hands with (antibacterial) soap and warm water. Afterwards, wipe them dry and rub with Lysol or isopropyl-alcohol(iso-propanol).  Keep the rooms where you do the inoculation and fruiting dust free and clean and don't bring in dirty clothing or shoes.  Equally important is personal hygiene. Dirty hands, and even dirty hair, are a hotbed for all kinds of unwanted microorganisms which can destroy your cultivation project.
to:
El método [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] lo hizo público en 1992  [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
Éste método convirtió el cultivo casero de setas en algo factible para aficionados sin grandes conocimientos micológicos, empleando materiales comunes de fácil adquisición.
El método de cultivo que aquí se presenta está basado en el PF-tek. Se incluyen algunas modificaciones que han sido previamente probadas y que, según mi criterio, mejoran el método original PF-tek.
Es recomendable haber leido el método
[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], si no se ha hecho todavía, ya que de ésta manera se entederán mejor algunos de los pasos descritos en el método que a continuación se describe.

En éste caso, emplearemos tarros de cristal con tapa de 1/2 pinta (~240ml) de capacidad o vasos. Tienen que ser con la boca más ancha que la base (ver foto más abajo). El sustrato estará compuesto de vermiculita, harina de arroz integral y agua. Mezclaremos el sustrato, lo esterilizaremos e inocularemos con esporas de setas. Una vez el sustrato ha sido completamente colonizado por el micelio, la fructificación se realizará en un contenedor de plástico.

!!Con respecto a la higiene

Cuando el cultivo de setas se realiza en interiores empleando sustratos preparados artificialmente, no solo se consiguen unas condiciones óptimas para el cultivo de las setas deseadas
, también se favorece el crecimiento de una gran cantidad de organismos, de los cuales, unos pocos pueden ser perniciosos para la salud.
Para asegurarnos de que el cultivo es del tipo de seta deseado, tendremos que prestar especial atención a la higiene en todo el proceso.
Antes de empezar, hay que lavarse las manos con jabón antibacterias y agua caliente. Después, las limpiaremos con alcohol de uso tópico.
Mantén limpias y libres de polvo las habitaciones donde se vayan ha realizar las inoculaciones y donde se vayan a producir las setas (fase de fructificación). Tampoco se debe entrar en estas zonas limpias con ropa sucia o zapatos. Igualmente importante es la higine personal. De hecho, un pelo sucio es un nido de todo tipo de organismos indeseables para el cultivo y que, pueden estropear nuestro proyecto. Lo mismo es aplicable a unas manos sucias
.
Changed lines 36-40 from:
!!Materials

Most materials are easily avaliable at the local shops.

!!Vermiculite
to:
!!Materiales

!!Vermiculita
Changed lines 41-45 from:
[[http://www.schundler.com/techverm.htm | Vermiculite]] is made from a naturally occurring mineral - [[http://www.discovermyvillage.com/Articles/minerals/mica.html | mica]].
Crushed
mica containing water is heated and expands to a volume several times greater than that of the untreated mica.
Vermiculite is able to hold several times its own weight in water and it gives the substrate an airy structure.
Vermiculite is available in several grades, the middle and the middle-fine grade are most suitable for cultivation purposes
.
to:
La [[http://www.otavi.es/index.htm|vermiculita]] está hecha de un mineral llamado [[http://perso.wanadoo.es/chyryes/glosario/mica.htm|mica]].
La mica, machacada y conteniendo agua, es calentada hasta que se expande a un volumen varias veces superior al de la mica sin tratar.
La Vermiculita tiene la propiedad de retener una cantidad de agua muy superior al de su peso a la vez que mantiene la textura suelta y aireada del sustrato.
La Vermiculita es comercializada en diferentes grosores, siendo el grosor medio/ medio-fino, los más adecuados para el cultivo de setas
.
Changed lines 49-70 from:
!!Online sources for vermiculite and perlite

'''USA'''
%target=blank%[[
http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/vermiculite|vermiculite @ ebay]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/perlite|perlite @ ebay]] 
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=
en&q=hydroponic+vermiculite+site:.com+-schundler|vermiculite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://www
.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+perlite+site:.com+-schundler|perlite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=vermiculite|vermiculite @ Froogle]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=perlite|perlite @ Froogle]]

'''Canada'''
[[http://www.hydroponics.com/pricing/index.html | www.hydroponics.com]]

'''United Kingdom'''
[[http://www.gro-lite.co.uk/hydroponics.htm | www.gro-lite.co.uk]]

'''Australia'''
[[http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/mediums.htm#verm | users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/]]

Vermiculite is generally available in garden and hydrophonic stores, in some regions also in pet shops.

!!Brown rice flour
(BRF)
to:
!!Proveedores en internet de vermiculita y perlita

España

http://www.projar.es/pagi/otras/indi.html

La Vermiculita se puede conseguir en centros de jardinería, grow shops y
en algunas tiendas de animales.

!! Harina de arroz integral
(BRF)
Changed lines 59-66 from:
BRF is available in health food shops either already ground, sometimes though there is only whole brown rice available.
In this case you can grind the rice either in the shop or, if this option is not available, grind your own using an electrical coffee grinder.
BRF is best kept cool and dry for prolonged periods of time, since it can easily become rancid because of the fat content of its husk
.
If you are unable to find BRF you can also use whole wheat- or rye flour with similar results. Ground millet or ground millet based birdseed also work good.
[[http://www.google.com/search?q=%22%2Bbrown%2B%2Brice%2B%2Bflour%22%2B-cookies%2B-muffins%2B-bread|Google search for BRF]]
[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22brown%2Brice%2Bflour%22%2B-buttermilk%2B-chicken%2B-pasta%2B-syrup%2B-gravy%2B-lamb%2B-pantry%2B-beef%2B-shampoo%2B-glucan%2B-crackers | Froogle search for BRF]]

(:cell:)
[[Pfpics:brownrice.jpg|Pfpics:brownrice_small.jpg]]
to:
La BRF se puede conseguir en algunas tiendas de alimentación y herbolarios, aunque a veces lo único disponible será el arroz integral en grano entero. En éste caso tendremos que convertir el grano en harina utilizando un molinillo eléctrico de café.
La BRF se conserva más tiempo y en mejores condiciones en un lugar fresco y seco. Si no, podría ponerse rancia debido al contenido en grasas de las cáscaras del arroz
..
En caso de no poder adquirir la
BRF, se puede sustituir por harina de trigo integral o harina de centeno. El mijo y la comida para pájaros que contiene mijo también se puede utilizar.
[[http://www.google.es/search?q=Harina%2Bde%2Barroz%2Bintegral&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=es&btnG=B%C3%BAsqueda%2Ben%2BGoogle&meta=cr=countryES|Búsqueda en Google de BRF]]

(:cell:)
[[Pfpics:brownrice.jpg
|Pfpics:brownrice_small.jpg]]
Added line 108:
Added line 126:
Added line 219:
Changed lines 224-225 from:
To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
to:
To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
 
Added line 231:
Added line 285:
Added line 360:
Added lines 1-386:
(:noautosections:)

====
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0 width=100% align=center:)
(:cell:)
Pfpics:shroom_zwerg1.gif

(:cell:)
%center%'+PF-Tek for Simple Minds+'
%center%for the cultivation of grain - loving mushrooms
%center%(''Psilocybe cubensis'')
%center%'-( updated: {$LastModified} )-'
%center%'-dead link reports, comments and suggestions welcome any time-' %center%[[http://www.fungifun.org/contact.htm | Pfpics:brief.gif]]

(:cell:)
Pfpics:shroom_zwerg.gif
(:tableend:)

====
The [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]] was developed and first made public in 1992 by [[http://www.fanaticus.com/ | www.fanaticus.com]] ('-[[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus|mirror]]-').
This tek made the cultivation of mushrooms at home feasible for complete beginners utilizing commonly available materials.
The growing method I  describe here is based on the PF-tek but includes a few modifications that are time tested, and are, in my opinion, superior to the original PF-tek.
I strongly recommend you to read the original  [[http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus/pf-tek.htm | PF-Tek]], if you haven't done so already, to see a different approach to some steps.

The PF-Tek for Simple Minds uses ½ pint (~240ml) canning jars or drinking glasses and a growing substrate made of vermiculite, brown rice flour and water. The substrate is prepared, sterilized and inoculated with mushroom spores. After the substrate is fully colonized the fruiting takes place in a humid container.

!!On the subject of cleanliness

By growing mushrooms indoors on a nutritious substrate, you create conditions than not only favor the growth of the mushrooms, but also favor the growth of a large number of other organisms, many of them hazardous to the health.  To ensure that only the desired mushroom is grown, it is very important to assure cleanliness in all of the cultivation related procedures.

Before you work, wash your hands with (antibacterial) soap and warm water. Afterwards, wipe them dry and rub with Lysol or isopropyl-alcohol(iso-propanol).  Keep the rooms where you do the inoculation and fruiting dust free and clean and don't bring in dirty clothing or shoes.  Equally important is personal hygiene. Dirty hands, and even dirty hair, are a hotbed for all kinds of unwanted microorganisms which can destroy your cultivation project.

====
!!Materials

Most materials are easily avaliable at the local shops.

!!Vermiculite
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
[[http://www.schundler.com/techverm.htm | Vermiculite]] is made from a naturally occurring mineral - [[http://www.discovermyvillage.com/Articles/minerals/mica.html | mica]].
Crushed mica containing water is heated and expands to a volume several times greater than that of the untreated mica.
Vermiculite is able to hold several times its own weight in water and it gives the substrate an airy structure.
Vermiculite is available in several grades, the middle and the middle-fine grade are most suitable for cultivation purposes.

(:cell:) [[Pfpics:vermiculite.jpg|Pfpics:vermiculite_small.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Online sources for vermiculite and perlite

'''USA'''
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/vermiculite|vermiculite @ ebay]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-1784094-5463217?loc=http://search.ebay.com/perlite|perlite @ ebay]] 
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+vermiculite+site:.com+-schundler|vermiculite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hydroponic+perlite+site:.com+-schundler|perlite @ Google]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=vermiculite|vermiculite @ Froogle]]
%target=blank%[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=perlite|perlite @ Froogle]]

'''Canada'''
[[http://www.hydroponics.com/pricing/index.html | www.hydroponics.com]]

'''United Kingdom'''
[[http://www.gro-lite.co.uk/hydroponics.htm | www.gro-lite.co.uk]]

'''Australia'''
[[http://users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/mediums.htm#verm | users.bigpond.net.au/nutriflo/]]

Vermiculite is generally available in garden and hydrophonic stores, in some regions also in pet shops.

!!Brown rice flour (BRF)
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
BRF is available in health food shops either already ground, sometimes though there is only whole brown rice available.
In this case you can grind the rice either in the shop or, if this option is not available, grind your own using an electrical coffee grinder.
BRF is best kept cool and dry for prolonged periods of time, since it can easily become rancid because of the fat content of its husk.
If you are unable to find BRF you can also use whole wheat- or rye flour with similar results. Ground millet or ground millet based birdseed also work good.
[[http://www.google.com/search?q=%22%2Bbrown%2B%2Brice%2B%2Bflour%22%2B-cookies%2B-muffins%2B-bread|Google search for BRF]]
[[http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22brown%2Brice%2Bflour%22%2B-buttermilk%2B-chicken%2B-pasta%2B-syrup%2B-gravy%2B-lamb%2B-pantry%2B-beef%2B-shampoo%2B-glucan%2B-crackers | Froogle search for BRF]]

(:cell:)[[Pfpics:brownrice.jpg|Pfpics:brownrice_small.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Water 
Water used for the substrate preparation should have drinking water quality. Tap water is usually ok, but if you're not sure about it, better use bottled drinking water or mineral water.

!!Spore syringe
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
A plastic syringe with needle attached containing 10cc -12cc suspension of mushroom spores in water.
The color of the suspension varies from completely translucent to slightly violet depending on the quantity of the spores in the solution.
Spores are microscopic so as long as you see at least a few specs in more or less clear water the syringe should have plenty of spores.  Available through the internet, for instance
 
[[http://www.sporeworks.com/ | www.sporeworks.com]]
[[http://www.thehawkseye.com/ | www.thehawkseye.com]]
and many [[http://www.shroomery.org/vendors.php | more]].

(:cell:)
[[Pfpics:spritze.jpg | Pfpics:spritze_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

!!Jars
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
The jars should have a content of around ½ pint (~240ml)
You can use either canning jars (Ball, Kerr...) or drinking glasses, the only requirement is that they are tapered and without shoulders, so you can slide the cake out of it in one piece once it's colonized. Bigger jars take much longer to colonize and are not recommended.
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23249 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the USA?]]
[[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23257 |Shroomery FAQ: Where can I find supplies in the UK? ]]
(:cell:)
[[Pfpics:glaeser.jpg|Pfpics:glaeser_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

====
!!Substrate preparation
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
For one ½ pint jar(~240 ml) you will need: 
=> 140 ml vermiculite
=>  40 ml brown rice flour
=>  some vermiculite to fill the jar to the top (app. 20 ml)
=> water

Note:
½pt(pint) = 1 cup = 236ml(milliliter) = 236cc(cubic centimeter) = 1/4 qt(quart)
The cups, pints and quarts are in the US liquid measuring system.
(:cell:)
Pfpics:zutaten.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Put the required amount of vermiculite for all the jars of one batch (for instance 6 jars: 6 x 140 ml = 840 ml ) in a bowl.

(:cell:)
Pfpics:mischen1.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Pour water slowly over the vermiculite while stirring with a spoon.
Be careful to only put that much water in as it can be absorbed by the vermiculite. Stir it well so all the vermiculite is uniformly soaked with water.

(:cell width=350:)
Pfpics:verm_wasser.jpg Pfpics:vermiculite_wet.jpg

(:cellnr:)
When you tilt the bowl you should see just a little water starting coming from the vermiculite.
This is when the correct water content is achieved.
If there is too much water in the bowl, pour the wet vermiculite in a strainer and let the excess water drain for a minute. Then the vermiculite will be at the field capacity, which is perfect.

(:cell:)
Pfpics:wassergeh.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Now put the required amount of the BRF (for instance 6 x 40 ml = 240 ml) into the wet vermiculite at once and mix it in with the spoon. The goal is to uniformly coat the wet vermiculite particles with a layer of BRF.

(:cell width=350:)
Pfpics:vermiculite_brf.jpg Pfpics:vermiculite_brf_stirr.jpg[[<<]]Pfpics:vermiculite_brf_stirred.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Fill the mixture in jars ½ inch (1cm) under the top. it's very important to fill the substrate in the jars without tapping it down at all. It should stay very airy and loose to provide optimum conditions for the growth of mycelium.
Be careful not to leave any substrate on the upper edge of the jar. If you weren't careful enough and there are some substrate specks at the edge take a clean moist cloth and wipe the upper portion of the jar clean. Otherwise contaminants can start at those spots and work their way down into the jar.

(:cell width=350:)
Pfpics:glas_leer.jpg Pfpics:glas_befuellen.jpg[[<<]]Pfpics:glas_voll.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Fill up the jar with dry vermiculite to the top.
This layer hinders airborne contaminants reaching the underlying substrate in case they manage to come in during the inoculation and incubation.

(:cell width=350:)
Pfpics:jar_fill.jpg Pfpics:jar_filled.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Take a 5inch(12cm) wide stripe of aluminium foil and fold it in the middle.
Put the foil over the opening of the jar as shown in the pictures. If you're using jars with metal lids, you can poke 4 holes at the very edge of each lid with a small nail and hammer and screw the lid on. The holes should be slightly bigger than the diameter of the syringe needle.

(:cell width=350:)
Pfpics:image034.jpg Pfpics:image036.jpg [[<<]]Pfpics:image038.jpg Pfpics:image040.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Fold the foil edges up and press them together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid.

(:cell:)
Pfpics:image042.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Then take a piece of foil measuring 5in x 5in in and put it over the first two layers (respectively the metal lid if you're using lids) leaving the edges of the foil reaching down, since it has to be lifted again during the inoculation.
So now you have 3 layers of foil over the opening. The top layer is lifted during the inoculation.

(:cell width=350px:)
Pfpics:image044.jpg Pfpics:image046.jpg Pfpics:image048.jpg
(:tableend:)

====
!!Sterilization
(:table border=0 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0:)
(:cell:)
Pour approximately 1inch (2.5cm) of water into the pressure cooker, don't put in too much water otherwise it will come into the jars and alter their water content.
Then stack the jars into the pressure cooker. The use of a rack to keep the jars from directly touching the bottom of the cooker is strongly recommended.
Put the lid on and bring the cooker to the required pressure (15 psi = 1atm over atmospheric pressure) slowly over a period of 15 minutes on a medium flame.

(:cell width=350px:)
Pfpics:6glas.jpg Pfpics:skt_leer.jpg
Pfpics:skt_offen.jpg Pfpics:skt_aussen.jpg 
(:tableend:)

If you heat up the cooker too fast this can cause the jars to crack.
As soon as the steam begins to escape the rocker or the vent at the top of the pressure cooker turn the heat back so only a very small, steady steam flow persists from the vent. From this point on, pressure cook for 45 minutes.
Depending on the pressure cooker model the cooking procedure works a bit different so if you're not familiar with pressure cooking consult the instruction manual or someone who used pressure cookers before.
After 45 min take the cooker from the flame and let cool for at least 5 hours or even better over night.
If you are unable to find or buy a pressure cooker, you can also sterilize the jars using a big pot with a lid.
In this case steam the jars for 1.5 hours in a pot lid on. Use only approximately 1 inch of water at the bottom.
You might have to add some water to the pot during steaming due to evaporation.
If you never have used a pressure cooker before check out this document about the [[http://www.fungifun.org/pressure_cooker_use/ | correct pressure cooker use]].

====
!!Inoculation
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After the cooker is cold to the touch take the jars out and place them on a clean surface, have an alcohol lamp or a lighter and the spore syringe ready. Shake the spore syringe to break up the spore clumps.
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Pfpics:glas_spritze.jpg Pfpics:schuett.jpg

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To be able to shake it it's necessary that there is a small bubble of air in the syringe. If this is not the case, then you can suck approximately 1cc of sterile air into the syringe by placing the tip of the needle into the flame and slowly pulling the plunger back.
(:cell width=350px:)
Pfpics:flamme.jpg

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Loosen the foil from all of the jars so it can be lifted easily when you inoculate.
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Pfpics:glas_foile_auf.jpg

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Take the cover from the needle and heat it over the flame until glowing red. Let cool for a few seconds

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Pfpics:flamme.jpg

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Take the upper foil layer off and put aside upside down.

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Pfpics:glas_ofolie.jpg

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Pierce the foil at the edge of the jar with the needle app. 1in(2.5cm) deep and inject the spore suspension towards the inner jar surface. You should see a small drop running down the inner surface of the jar towards the bottom. Each jar is inoculated on 4 equally spaced points. You should use 1 - 1.5 ml of the spore suspension per jar so one 10ml syringe is sufficient for 6 -10 jars.

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Pfpics:glas_impfen.jpg Pfpics:glas_beimpft.jpg

(:cellnr:)
Put the foil on again. Flame sterilize the needle again after inoculating 3 jars to prevent cross contamination just in case a jar wasn't properly sterilized.
When all of the jars are inoculated fold the foil edges up and press them firmly together so you get a nice aluminium foil lid. Write the inoculation date and the species/strain information on the foil with an all surface felt tip pen. If you touch something other with the needle during the inoculation procedure except the foil surface of the bottom foil layer immediately flame sterilize the tip again.

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Pfpics:image072.jpg Pfpics:image074.jpg
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====
!!Incubation

The jars should be stored at 21-27°C (70-81°F), the warmer the better, but not exceeding 27°C. If you don't have these temperatures at home you can build an incubator to accommodate the jars.

!!Incubator

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The inoculated jars develop fastest if they are stored at a temperature of 27°C (80°F) (According to Stamets the best incubation temperature for ''P. cubensis'' would be 86°F, but since the jars themselves are a few degrees warmer than the surroundings (mycelium emits heat when growing) 80°F is a good and safe incubator temperature)

You can build an effective incubator by using two plastic boxes of the same size and an aquarium heater. 
There are several types of aquarium heaters. When you´re buying a heater, make sure that it is of the "fully submersible" type. 
Attach the heater to the bottom of the first box and pour in as much 27°C warm water that the heater is completely submerged.
Adjust the heaters thermostat so that the heater just shuts itself off at 27°C .
Put some spacers on the bottom of the box, they carry the second box and prevent it from touching the heater. In the above picture 4 jars are used. You could also use bricks, stones or something similar.

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Pfpics:inkubator1.jpg
[[Pfpics:waterlevel.gif | Pfpics:waterlevel_small.gif]]

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Put the second box in the one containing water.
After a few hours measure the temperature again and adjust the heater if necessary so the water temperature is 27°C.
(:cell width=350px:)
Pfpics:inkubator2.jpg

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When the box is empty, it will float on the water.
The water level in the lower box should reach app. 2/3 the height of the box, supposing the upper box is in place loaded with jars and resting on the spacers.

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[[Pfpics:waterlevel2.jpg | Pfpics:waterlevel2_small.jpg]]

(:cellnr:)
Now you can put the inoculated jars into the box.

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Pfpics:inkubator3.jpg

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Cover the jars with a blanket to keep the heat escaping and to keep the jars dark. Note: the water level drops in some weeks by evaporation. Therefore you have to fill some fresh water in from time to time to keep the water level high enough. Never let evaporate so much water that the heater isn´t submerged in water anymore! You can get all of the above items at [[http://www.tkqlhce.com/7o70uoxuowBDJKGCLGBHLCECIL | www.ebay.com]] for a very good price.

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Pfpics:inkubator4.jpg
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====
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Providing the jars are kept warm you should see the first sign of germination after 3-5 days as bright white specks. This is mycelium. If anything grows that is not white, for instance green, black or pink, then the jars are contaminated and their content must be discarded and your clean procedures need some improvement. After the jars are emptied and the jar is washed with detergent and hot water it can be used again. 
Check the [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/3344 | Shroomery Contamination FAQ]] for more information on possible contaminations in mushroom culture.

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[[Pfpics:kol1.jpg | Pfpics:kol1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol2.jpg | Pfpics:kol2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol3.jpg | Pfpics:kol3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:kol4.jpg | Pfpics:kol4_klein.jpg]]

(:cellnr:)
Depending on the temperature and the viability of the spore syringe it takes 14-28 days for the mycelium to colonize the whole jar. Once colonized store the jars at normal room temperature, about 21°C (70°F) to initiate pinning.
Don't expose the jars to direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight (= the natural light that lights up a room because at day time out) or a low wattage lamp (cool white fluorescent lamp is ideal, incandescent lamp is less suitable) for 4-12 hours a day is sufficient.

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[[Pfpics:glas_bewachsen.jpg | Pfpics:glas_bewachsen_klein.jpg]]

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Within 5-10 days (with certain mushroom strains it can however take up to 30 days) pinhead-size accumulations of mycelium should form. These so called pins represent the beginning of mushroom growth. In the following days also small mushrooms with brown heads become visible. When this is the case it's time to birth the cake into the fruiting container where the mushrooms can develop to maturity.
Some strains don't easily develop pins. In this case put the colonized jar wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge over night and then proceed to [[http://www.fungifun.org/pf/fruiting.htm | fruiting]] next day, even if the cake doesn´t show pins yet. This cold shocking usually helps trigger pinning somewhat.

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[[Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_1.jpg | Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_1_klein.jpg ]]
[[Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_2.jpg | Pfpics:cake_pre1flush_2_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)

====
!!Fruiting
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The fruiting of the cakes can be accomplished in any sort of container that can be loosely sealed and has at least one translucent side, preferably on the top. Suitable containers are a plastic bucket, rubbermaid container, terrarium, aquarium...
Put an '^1^'/'_2_' inch layer of moistened [[http://www.perlite.org/bfacts.htm | perlite]] or [[http://www.simplyhydroponics.com/expanded_clay.htm | expanded clay pelets]] or even a wet paper towel at the bottom of the container and birth the cakes onto this layer by letting them slide from the jar upside down. Sometimes the cake doesn't slide out of the jar easily by itself.
You just need to turn the colonized jar upside down in your hand and slam the hand lightly against the palm of the other hand. This will make the cake slide against the lid and it can be birthed with ease.

(:cell width=350px:)
Pfpics:kuebel.jpg [[Pfpics:jar_slam.jpg | Pfpics:jar_slam_small.jpg]]

(:cellnr:)
If you have a bigger fruiting chamber (a bigger plastic container or a terrarium) you can of course put in more than one cake to fruit.
The distance between the cakes should be at least 2" (5cm) for the mushrooms have room to grow. Put a sheet of translucent plastic over the opening of the fruiting container. Take this sheet off once a day and fan the air out with a piece of cardboard. If the bottom layer begins to dry out, spray it with some water to keep it moist since this layer provides moisture for the air to stay very humid. Don&acute;t spray the cakes directly.
Handle the cakes as little as possible but when you do it allways wash your hands thouroughly beforehand.
Over a course of the bext 7-14 days the cakes will begin to pin(if the haven't began to pin in the jars yet) and the small mushrooms will grow big in a matter of 2-5 days and as soon the caps begin to open they can be harvested.
This simultanious maturation of all mushrooms is called a flush.

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[[Pfpics:gt1.jpg | Pfpics:gt1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt2.jpg | Pfpics:gt2_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt3.jpg | Pfpics:gt3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt4.jpg | Pfpics:gt4_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt5.jpg | Pfpics:gt5_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:gt6.jpg | Pfpics:gt6_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:gt7.jpg | Pfpics:gt7_klein.jpg]]

(:cellnr:)
After the mushrooms have grown big there are usually a few small, stunted mushrooms left over, they are called aborts. They can be recognized by their blackish heads and the fact that they stopped growing at some point. Still they are good to use unless they are rotten.
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[[Pfpics:aborts1_big.jpg | Pfpics:aborts1.jpg]]
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It's crucial that you harvest all mushrooms, also the aborts, after the flush. This is most easily accomplished if you harvest the mushrooms off by gently twisting and tearing them off the cake with clean hands. Optionally you can [[http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/dunktek.html | dunk]] the cakes after each flush, this can increase the flush size significantly.

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After approximately one week small mushrooms begin to form again and mature during the next days.
This cycle can repeat itself up to 4 times sometimes even more. After that the cake is exhausted it produces no more mushrooms and can be discarded. They can be also used to start [[http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23532 | outdoor beds]].

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[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_0.jpg | Pfpics:cake_2flush_0_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_2flush_1.jpg | Pfpics:cake_2flush_1_klein.jpg]]

(:cellnr:)
Sometimes green mold attacks the cakes even before they are completely exhausted. If this is the case remove and discard the contaminated cakes immediately to prevent the spreading of the contamination.

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[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_2.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_2flush_3.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_3_klein.jpg]]
[[Pfpics:cake_2flush_4.jpg|Pfpics:cake_2flush_4_klein.jpg]]

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3'^rd^' flush:

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[[Pfpics:cake_3flush_1.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_1_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_2.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_2_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_3.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_3_klein.jpg]] [[Pfpics:cake_3flush_4.jpg|Pfpics:cake_3flush_4_klein.jpg]]

(:cellnr:)
4'^th^' and final  flush:

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[[Pfpics:cake_4flush.jpg|Pfpics:cake_4flush_klein.jpg]]
(:tableend:)
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Page last modified on April 07, 2008, at 11:13 AM