CAsing

[Skavenger55]

can anyone point me to the best instructions of casing
i have 3 lbs of rye grain that is about to be fully colonized and i want to case it
do i have to use straw?
help?

[Skavenger55]

do you have to microwave soild if you use maunre or only if you use peatmoss for you compost

[Trips509]

This is the casing tek I use and I have had good results with it.
http://www.shroomery.org/54/50-50-Casing-Tek

[dumbfounded1600]

No you don't want a nutritional casing layer as this will colonize. You want a non nutritional layer. The only reason for a casing layer is to provide the substrate with more humidity%, Moisture, barrier for contamination...not really though as its virtually contaminant resistant once it's fully colonized. Use Peat/Vermiculite/Gypsum/Lime in your casing. The 50% Peat, 50% Vermiculite, 10% Gypsum, Teaspoon of 'HYDRATED LIME' per cup of peat. Remember. Sudden Decrease In C02 when introduced into fruiting is a massive pinning trigger. As well as FAE!

[Skavenger55]

how much waer should be used in the 50 50 mix if I use 5 cups of of verm and peat
should i just put enough water to make real moist
the when i am done how long do I put it into the microwave

[dumbfounded1600]

As much as needed to get to field capacity. Field capacity is you pick up a small handful and squeeze it not your hardest. A few drops should drop. When you squeeze your hardest a small stream should start and them stop after only a few seconds. Now a pasteurization tek because the microwave doesn't cut it. It's full of bacteria and mold.


Casing tek

Measure the appropriate amount of dry peat moss for your application. For the first few times you make up casing mix, youll just have to take an educated guess as to how much to prepare, then add or subtract from that amount as needed for future projects.

Place the dry peat into a large bowl, five gallon bucket, wheelbarrow, etc., depending on amount. Leave room for the quantity to double, and still allow space to stir. Break up the dry peat very well. There should be no chunks when you get finished, having carefully broken up the peat until its all the same consistency. To each cup of peat moss, add one teaspoon of hydrated horticultural lime, and one to two tablespoons of gypsum. Certain species can benefit from two tablespoons or even more of gypsum per cup, so dont be afraid to experiment, up to ten percent of the amount of peat.

Mix these dry ingredients together well. After mixing, slowly add water to the mix, stirring constantly. Add moisture until field capacity is achieved. I define field capacity as being reached when you can pick up a handful of the mix and no water drips out. If you squeeze lightly a few drops will come out, and if you squeeze very hard, a small rivulet or stream will flow out. Remember, the peat will not absorb all the water at once, so when you reach field capacity, let the mix sit for ten minutes and check again. Chances are, youll have to add more moisture.

In a separate bowl, place an equal amount by volume of vermiculite. Fill the bowl with water so the vermiculite begins to float a bit. Turn the bowl over and allow all the water to drain off. A fine mesh strainer works well for larger amounts.

Mix the moistened vermiculite with the moistened peat/lime/gypsum very well and pasteurize at 140F to 160F for one hour. Use as soon as its cooled. If you dont use it all, its best to discard or use for your houseplants. Make a fresh batch every time for best results.
RR

Pasteurization tek

Load the pre-moistened to field capacity casing mix, compost or manure into quart mason jars. Place a lid and/or foil over the top. Put the jars into a large covered pot of cold water, with the water filled to 2/3 to ¾ of the way up the jars. A large kettle or pressure cooker works well. If necessary, put a plate or some other weight over the jars to prevent them from floating. Make sure you have a spacer or dishtowel under the jars to prevent the direct heat of the stove burner or flame from cracking your jars. Place the lid on the pot and turn on the stove. Bring the water to a boil, but watch over it and as soon as the water actually reaches a boil, shut off the stove, but leave the pot sitting on the burner. The preceding is for an electric stove that will remain hot for a little while after shutting off power. If you use gas, allow the water to boil for one to two minutes before shutting off the stove. After a couple of hours when theyve cooled, the jars can be removed and used.

The first time or two you use this technique, monitor the interior of your jars with a meat thermometer. Place it right into the center of the peat or compost. You want to make sure the center of the jar reaches at least 140F and stays there for an hour, but dont allow it to exceed 170F. Depending on the thickness and capacity of your kettle and lid, you may need to adjust the above times slightly. This tek works because glass is an insulator, so the temperature inside the jars lags the water in the kettle. When I use the above procedure with 7 full quart jars in my All American 921, it comes out perfectly just as written. If you use a smaller pot, you may need to turn the stove on briefly at the ½ hour mark for a few minutes.

The advantage to this tek is there is no pillowcase, etc., to drain and little to no mess or stink is made in your kitchen or pressure cooker. The disadvantage is you have a bunch of jars to wash when youre done.
RR

[anno]

Field capacity is you pick up a small handful and squeeze it not your hardest. A few drops should drop. When you squeeze your hardest a small stream should start and them stop after only a few seconds.

This is not field capacity. The above describes the correct casing moisture.

Field capacity is MUCH wetter, nearly dripping wet.

[Skavenger55]

the bottom layer of verm does it need to be pasturized or is it okay straight out of the bag with water added
is that a good first layer

there are so many different teks i dont know which one is correct but the above in sounds real good thanks