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wipe it down with bleach water, then wash with soap and rinse.

get rid of those.  not in your house, the spores will get out and could screw you for future grows. also wash those glasses really well

casing material should be non-nutrative.  straw-poo is not a casing. if you were to mix your grain with straw-poo you would be spawing to a bulk substrate.  i use peat moss/verm 50/50 mix for casing. verm/coir or potting soil will both work. check here
http://www.shroomery.org/20/Casing-Procedures

works well either way cased or spawned to bulk.  i use peat moss and vermiculite for casing, roughly 50/50 i never measure.  if i have extra time i scoop off the floaters, but Ive done it many times without scooping them, with no discernible affects.

by adding straw you are doing a bulk grow.  you using your rye as spawn to colonize the straw, which is giving your mycelium more nutrients.  if you continue to do the straw you may want to consider making your substrate depth thicker, around 4 inches.  also think about pasteurizing some worm castings with the straw, it will give the mycelium even more nutrients.  giving that your fruiting chamber is giving optimal growth parameters the addition of straw will most likely give you larger flushes with larger shrooms.  not guaranteed, as you say by not adding it your avoiding another possible contamination point and saving time. 

rust is a chemical reaction between water metal and air.  it is not a bacteria that is going to cause contamination.  Ive never had problems with my rings getting a little rust on them.  i use synthetic filter disks, so i dont work about the lids.  occasionally the rust will stop me from closing my jars properly and ill switch rings.

yes

that can cause slow growth.  you should still see something its been 19 days.  just keep em in dark.  and be patient.  there are alot of reasons why some of them didnt take, but hopfully there just slow.

what temp are you incubating at?

if you poke the holes then you dont need to fan.  they are for the same purpose. FAE.  if you poke to many your RH will be to low, so you need to play around with it.  "30RH" is to low for your humidity once you start fruiting you want 100% after pinning it is ok if it drops a little 90% or so depending on if your casing or not.  dunk and roll is definitely the way to go with cakes. perlite might need more than one inch.  you need a hygrometer to be sure of your humidity.  fruiting at 70 degrees F works good.  If your going to fan for FAE you need to do so 3 or 4 times a day.  with the holes you dont need to fan. 

youll be good for a month or two. ive never kept anything for longer periods of time than that.

you shouldent be doomed.  just be patient.  most of the suppliers online that sell spores will also sell you syringes.

http://www.shroomery.org/67/Poor-Mans-Mycelium-Syringe-Tek

no experience with that strain, they are all pretty similar.

yes thats how its done

no

looks very dry as well as dead.  how high did the heat get and for how long?

PF stands for Psylocybe Fanaticus, the guy who came up with the tek.  he sold spores and his method until the DEA stepped in.  there is a mirror to his original web site on this one. its here

http://www.fungifun.org/fanaticus

you don't want to case with WBS.  you colonize the WBS, its your substrate.  you could use the vermiculite mixed with peat moss as a casing on your WBS.  the perlite is for humidification. 

could take 2 weeks on brf cake just to see first signs of growth.

I second the dub vote.